Topic: How to find new IP after new modem

[PaulMy]

A few days ago I upgraded my ISP services that included a new modem/router.  While my Blitzortung seems to be still working https://www.lightningmaps.org/blitzortung/america/index.php?bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076&bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076 but no data visible


In the previous set up I could access my Blitzortung at 192.168.0.16 and that still displays on my controller. 

The new modem uses 10.0.0.xx and I have tried all the IP's that I can see in the 10.0.0.1 interface and settings but have not found Blitzortung.


This is mostly above my understanding but with some great help several years ago I was able to get the Blitzortung all set up.  I believe the IP 192.168.0.16 was set as a fixed IP and that is the cause of my issue, something similar to my WiFiLogger that had to be changed from the former 192.168.0.xxx to new 10.0.0.xxx.

Any suggestion on how I go about this?

Trying to enjoy,
Paul

[galfert]

You only have 4 choices to fix this. Increasing in complexity they are.

1- Factory reset the Blitzortung so that it goes back to using DHCP. Not sure what you'd lose as I don't have a Blitzortung.

2- Change your computer to be on two subnets at the same time. You can set  static IPs on a computer to be on both the 10.x.x.x and on the 192.x.x.x network. This allows you to see the Blitzortung and reconfigure it for the 10.x.x.x network and then you can revert the computer bact to just using the 10.x.x.x subnet.

3- You can set up a temporary network with a spare router. It doesn't need Internet. Just a local only network. This network would use the 192.x.x.x subnet. Use it to reconfigure the Blitzortung to DHCP or new 10.x.x.x static.

4- setup an advanced network with routing tables and make 192.x.x.x become a routable VLAN. This requires a new router or a layer 3 managed switch.

All of these are relatively simple except #4.

Tip - put the modem in bridge mode, get your own router. Keeping that 10.x.x.x subnet is going to be a headache now and in the future for other devices that may not 100% adhear to networking standards. If you had your own router you can move or change ISP and there is hardly anything to reconfigure other than the WAN connection. Then everything internally on the LAN stays the same. I move companies networks all the time. It's pretty simple and easy when you control the internal network.

[galfert]

Here is the problem with using a 10.x.x.x subnet. This address space is typically Class A subnet (but it can be Class B or Class C also). What this means is that it can be configured with a 255.0.0.0 subnet mask (Class A). The problem is that some routers use the 10.x.x.x and they use this address space with a Class C subnet of 255.255.255.0 instead. Nothing wrong with that except for when dealing with some less than quality devices that see a 10.x.x.x address space and then they assume a Class A subnet or vise versa, like a Class A network and the device only wants to use a Class C network subnet mask.

I've seen this happen. It amounts to basically a development bug in the device for not getting the proper subnet from the router or DHCP server. Often this can be corrected with a firmware update or by using static addresses when DHCP does not work as expected but it requires some networking knowledge.

Executive Summary:
I know all that may be above some people's heads. So just know this. If you stick to a 192.x.x.x address space you'll have less headaches in connecting and keeping your network running properly. If you do decide to stick it out with a 10.x.x.x address space then you need to know what your subnet mask is and be sure to use the correct one for every device, especially statics. It could be 255.255.255.0 or it could be 255.0.0.0. It can actually be a whole bunch of others too but less likely.

[Jasiu / JJ]

Technically, the mask can be any length between or beyond the old "class" defaults.  E.g., 10.0.0.0/28 is a legit subnet.

But anyway, you are right that equipment is out there that still assumes the class (despite the fact that they were deprecated 26 years ago - man that makes me feel old). On my ASUS router, I have my interior subnet set up as 192.168.0.0/20 (255.255.240.0 mask) with the router address at 192.168.1.1, and on the router's home page, it will only show "clients" who reside within the 192.168.1.1 - 255 range. But the important code (e.g., DHCP) is behaving itself.

It'll all become so much more fun when IPv6 gets more widely deployed in home networks...

[Cutty Sark Sailor]

ALL BT WANTS is a valid, open internet connection to comm with the IBODs..It's a different matter, if the servers can't comm back to controller...at best you get listed as "idle"...then, again, if the new units don't set up to match your Controller's config, then you've got to figure out how to do that.. couple of advices above..... now,
The factory default for BT controllers is192.168.1.235. 
under the 255 masks, etc...

Unless you changed that in your settings, that should always be the 'default', regardless of DHCP, etc...
to go back to that, if you changed it in the controller, you MUST do a complete factory default reset  or find it on the router, if possible, and proceed to reconfigure your controller to match.. even that may not work, in some cases...

Now, the kicker is: on settings page: 


I've multiple setations.. each is assigned a 'static' IP, which is why the 'address' for this one is "217"...default would be "235",,,,find your station on your 'router'.. if you can, and try to access at the 'router's" assignment for BT..  and "settgs' here to match that router config should get you back up... if you've got one of those combination router modems... well... good luck...Jumpin Joe and some others had issues with those 'proivider supplied' combos...
OH... at this moment, I suspect the team is doing some 'work' on the BT servers,... noticed an issue with my 791 RED comm.. one some of us are 'experimenting' with... it had lost Server Connection because of the 'experiments'(?) and the BT IBODs apparently didn't approve... heh...
so with that caveat, good luck

[PaulMy]

We have now moved in to the new house and most weather stuff is working again, just 2 items left, B-L sunrecorder and Blitzortung.


I have Blitzortung hooked up and I think that part is working fine but still can't get to settings, etc. as I don't know the IP to look at settings.
I do see some stroke detection here https://www.lightningmaps.org/blitzortung/america/index.php?bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076&bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076 and does that mean it is sending?

Enjoy,
Paul

[miraculon]

We have now moved in to the new house and most weather stuff is working again, just 2 items left, B-L sunrecorder and Blitzortung.


I have Blitzortung hooked up and I think that part is working fine but still can't get to settings, etc. as I don't know the IP to look at settings.
I do see some stroke detection here https://www.lightningmaps.org/blitzortung/america/index.php?bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076&bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076 and does that mean it is sending?

Enjoy,
Paul

I recommend Angry IP Scanner to help you find the IP address. https://angryip.org/

There doesn't seem to be an identified MAC Vendor or Hostname listed, but both my RED and Blue MAC addresses start with 70:B1:xx:xx:xx:xx

This might help you find the IP address. The Router might list the LAN side connections as well.

Greg H.

[PaulMy]

Thanks Greg, I have download Angry IP Scanner and that did not find the Blitzortung.  I have the original MAC address when Blitzortung was at 192.168.0.16 but this MAC address does not show in the router settings, nor in Angry IP Scanner or from using DOS CMD arp /a


@Cutty Sark

if you changed it in the controller, you MUST do a complete factory default reset  or find it on the router, if possible, and proceed to reconfigure your controller to match.. even that may not work, in some cases...

How would I do a complete factory reset?  Don Froula did the original set up and setting the static IP.


If I am unable to get it connecting and sending data (looking at the controller it seems to be detecting strikes) then thought of seeing if someone else could make use of it, but they would likely have the same issue of not getting access to it.

Trying to enjoy,
Paiul

[vreihen]

Your new router is probably not using 192.168.0.x IP addresses, so you will never find it with a scanner tool.

Figure out what IP netblock the new router is using (look at your computer's IP), and figure out an unused IP on that block for the Blitzortung.

Set the IP address on your computer statically to 192.168.0.15.  (Note that your computer will ONLY be able to talk with the Blitzortung now.)

Connect to 192.168.0.16, and change the IP address to the new one.

Change your PC's IP back to DHCP/dynamic or whatever it was previously set to.

If the Blitzortung supports DHCP and your new router supports DHCP reservations, that is the correct way to make sure that your devices are on the same IP addresses while still allowing for future moves.....

[PaulMy]

Thanks vreihen,
Correct, the new modem/router is using 10.0.0.xxx
I would use 10.0.0.225 for Blitzortung if I could get to the settings page

This is on Windows 8, and I have been able to go to the Network and Sharing Center tab, and choices are:

(  ) Obtain an IP automatically
(  ) Use the following IP address
I selected use the following IP address and entered 192.168.0.13 and subset 255.255.255.000

Then:
(  ) Obtain DNS server address automatically
(  ) Use the following DNS server address
which I left blank

Looks like this change took effect as internet access stopped.  However then entering 192.168.0.16 says can't find it, even though the Blitzortung controller says 192.168.0.16


I have now re-set the computer back to "Obtain an IP address automatically" so that I have internet again from this my weather computer.

Anything I may have missed?

Enjoy,
Paul

[vreihen]

If the two devices were on the same ethernet segment, then the above should have worked.

I can't offer any other suggestions, since my kit is still in transit and I don't know what configuration options it has.....

[Cutty Sark Sailor]

Paul... is this AT&T ????

[PaulMy]

No, it is Rogers https://www.rogers.com/customer/support/article/learn-more-about-the-rogers-ignite-modem

Enjoy,
Paul

[galfert]

Just think as soon as you have it all figured out if your modem/router craps out it will get replaced by the ISP. It could be potentially like moving if they change the model and how they have it configured. What if the next modem/router uses 192.168.x.x instead of 10.x.x.x subnet?

Therefore I suggest getting your own router. You can do so much more with your own router. You can more easily configure and save settings. You'll most likely get better WiFi performance. If you ever need to upgrade to a new router you can easily match your prior network settings. You'll also gain more features that you may or may not use but potentially it could be a more secure firewall also.

When you moved and you saw that the network was 10.x.x.x why did you not change it at that point to match your old 192.168.x.x, because that could have solved some headaches. Sure hindsight is 20/20...I understand....not criticizing.  But even yet still why not make sure that everything on the new 10.x.x.x is switched over to DHCP and then you can safely change the network to be 192.168.x.x.

The switch over to using your own router can be simple.
1. You plug in the new router into the existing modem/router.
2. The new router gets a WAN IP automatically from the modem/router in the 10.x.x.x subnet.
3. Essentially you end up with two networks. "Double NAT" which is not ideal but okay to have temporarily.
4. At this point you can plug things into the Modem/Router or into the New router.
5. Anything you plug into the Modem/Router is or gets a DHCP in the 10.x.x.x subnet.
6. Anything you move to behind the the new Router's LAN ports gets 192.168.x.x IP.
7. Both networks work at the same time.
8. Because of this be sure that the WiFi of the new Router has a different SSID name.
9. Realize that a device on the 10.x.x.x subnet will not see anything on the 192.168.x.x subnet....but that is okay as long as you get that. Most things only need Internet.
10. Once you've successfully switched everything to the 192.168.x.x subnet then you can finally change the Modem/Router to just be a Modem and that gets rid of the 10.x.x.x subnet. This is called putting the Modem into Bridge Mode. The Modem will then hand off the Public IP from the ISP to the new Router's WAN port instead of a 10.x.x.x IP.

You can do this transition one device at a time without taking the entire network down. Take your time.

I recommend never using the ISP's Modem as a router.
 

[PaulMy]

Unfortunately if we want TV then bridge mode is not an option https://www.rogers.com/customer/support/article/how-to-bridge-your-rogers-ignite-modem

Still looking for an access solution.

Enjoy,
Paul

[galfert]

I've read that some Rogers users have found a way around being able to enable Bridge Mode....

1. Put Modem in Bridge Mode
2. Just use WPS button on Ignite Boxes
3. Then press the WPS button on your Router

People have successfully done this with Asus and Linksys Routers.

Can't hurt to try.

I can't find all the places I read that but here is one, see last post in this thread from May 2019:
https://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/Ignite-TV/Ignite-TV-Modem-Router-with-Asus-Router/td-p/439366

By the way I recommend the Asus RT-AC68U router as good solid reliable router. Good for 2500 sq ft. If you need more coverage  you can get the more powerful RT-AC5300 which is good for up to 5000 sq ft.  One great thing about these routers is that they can be combined (with different models ...meaning even one RT-AC68U with a RT-AC5300 to make a Mesh network....Ethernet wired backhaul or wireless backhaul for the nodes....better wired backhaul if possible....but wireless works well too.

[PaulMy]

I have finally reconnected my Komoka station and have access with IP 192.168.0.16 again.  Sincere appreciation to forum member for the time and expertise in getting that done https://www.lightningmaps.org/blitzortung/america/index.php?bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076&bo_page=statistics&bo_show=station&bo_sid=1076


I get a notice that new firmware is available and I can download it.  However I see in the System settings Firmware: Upload and flash new firmware link.  Is it as simple to click on that and firmware will update?

Then to work on placing the antennas and amplifier in the new house to avoid excessive interference.

Hope to enjoy again,
Paul

[PaulMy]

Three years later and I am back with the same issue
My ISP had to change the modem and it uses local IP 10.0.0.xx  I tried to avoid it but had to consent if I wanted TV service for my wife, and they again warned against bridging the router.

I got my IPlogger, WLL, AirLink, CumulusMX, security camera and other things working ok.

Only issue so far is that Blitzortung is running but I cannot access the interface as it was with a static IP 192.168.0.16 and I haven't found how I can get to that from my 10.0.0.x modem.  Angry IP Scanner didn't find it either.  I have gone through the suggestions of 3 years ago, but I have no network knowledge.  Unless there is a relative easy way I may have to move it to the For Sale / Wanted board


Trying to enjoy,
Paul

[Mattk]

You could try configuring a PC/Laptop with an IP like 192.168.0.10, Subnet mask 255.255.255.0 and Default gateway 192.168.0.1 and direct cable connection to the device, change device option to DHCP then repower it on your new network

[PaulMy]

Thanks,
Any very easy to follow instruction or guide anywhere?


Paul

[Mattk]

Thanks,
Any very easy to follow instruction or guide anywhere?
Paul

Most MS Operating Systems should be similar? You need to find [Change Adapter settings], which generically sits under the Control Panel>Network and Internet>Network and Sharing Center then Change adapter settings. Open/click on that and you should have a Local Area Connection icon? Right click on that and select properties, highlight TCP/IP4 line then click properties and I am assuming the Option is Obtain an IP address automatically and if so then this will be the option you will need to reset to once done.

Highlight the Radio button Use the following IP address, for IP address use something like 192.168.0.10, subnet is 255.255.255.0, Default gateway say 192.168.0.1, don;t worry about DNS, then OK out of that.

Shutdown the PC, connect the ethernet direct from the PC to the other device and start PC. Logically you should be able to connect to the other device and change the fixed static IP to a DHCP option. shutdown, re-connect. repower the device back to the network, change the PC network back to the way it was, connect it back to the network and somewhere in your network/router you then need to discover the device's DHCP IP and login from the PC           

[PaulMy]

I think I am ready to put the For Sale sign up - any interest?
It is one of the fine builds by Don Froula


Enjoy,
Paul

[davidmc36]

How much?

[PaulMy]

Sorry for the delay... I guess I would start on what Don was asking for his https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=42683.msg436864#msg436864

Enjoy,
Paul

[PaulMy]

I have it in the For Sale forum
https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=44618.new#new

Enjoy,
Paul