WXforum.net
Weather Station Hardware => Weather Station Pictures => Topic started by: WxStation on September 28, 2010, 07:43:35 PM
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Here's what I use to monitor the weather.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9280117.jpg)
Nimbus Ultra Thermometer (spec +/- 0.2°F)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9260083.jpg)
RM Young FARS for the Nimbus sensor
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9280122.jpg)
Kollsman Altimeter Setting Indicator (spec +/- 0.007 inHg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/kollsman.jpg)
Close up of the dial
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9280134.jpg)
Belfort Barograph (spec +/- 0.005 inHg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9280138.jpg)
Close up of the pen
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/barograph.jpg)
Aquatech Barograph (spec +/- 0.007 inHg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9280131.jpg)
Princo Mercury Barometer (spec +/- 0.001 inHg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/min_max_sling.jpg)
Kessler Min/Max Thermometers and Psychrometer (spec +/- 0.4°F)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/raingage.jpg)
Standard Rain Gauge
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/wind.jpg)
RM Young Wind Monitor
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/visby_hail_wx.jpg)
OSI WIVIS (Visibility and Precipitation Type) with Hail Sensor
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P7120227_02.jpg)
Heathkit IDW-5001-C (Factory assembled)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/heathkit.jpg)
All my old Heathkit stuff I used when I was a kid. Just sitting in a closet now collecting dust.
At some point I want to get a dewpoint sensor and ceilometer.
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:shock: Very nice!! You'll probably get some queries about that old Heathkit equip. in the closet.
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NiceBill, RIP, is turning over in his grave, green with envy.
VERY nice toys!
George
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Very Very nice equipment.....If they could just speak! The stories they could tell.
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very cool but I am very jealous.
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That is some very nice equipment! 8-) I still have my old Heath Kit ID-1290 setting on the shelf. Someday when I find the time I would still like to fix up the bearings in the outdoor wind sensors and get it back running. I really preferred to watch it on windy days with the instantaneous wind readings it provided compared to the VP.
NiceBill, RIP, is turning over in his grave, green with envy.
VERY nice toys!
George
I was thinking the same thing George!
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Awesome! =D>
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On the left in the Heath Kit closet, are those temp and wind sensor kits?
I built them as a kid a LOOOOOOOng time ago. 8-)
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The top one on the left is the ID-1390B outdoor/indoor temperature. The middle one is the ID-1795 digital rain gauge. The bottom one is the ID-2295 outdoor/indoor relative humidity. I built them back in the mid to late 80's.
On the left in the Heath Kit closet, are those temp and wind sensor kits?
I built them as a kid a LOOOOOOOng time ago. 8-)
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That's why I don't care for the all-in-one weather stations now a days. I don't like sampling rates. I want instantaneous readings especially on wind speed.
That is some very nice equipment! 8-) I still have my old Heath Kit ID-1290 setting on the shelf. Someday when I find the time I would still like to fix up the bearings in the outdoor wind sensors and get it back running. I really preferred to watch it on windy days with the instantaneous wind readings it provided compared to the VP.
NiceBill, RIP, is turning over in his grave, green with envy.
VERY nice toys!
George
I was thinking the same thing George!
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Wow !!!!! =D> =D> =D> =D>
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That is some awesome gear, Jim!
--Jeff
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Now THAT'S one heck of an entrance!
Nice toys! =D>
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I'm beyond jealous! But I can't complain. I've got a Peet Ultimeter 2, an Oregon WMR99A, and just purchased a Davis Weather Wizard 3 on Ebay for $40.00 plus shipping. Lots to do this weekend.
I've got to say that what you have is the most comprehensive setup I've seen to date. WOW!
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Someone has some money .....
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Nice eqpt. Do you have an RM Young indicator for the wind monitor? I connect the RMY 05103 wind monitor to my Davis VP2 system. I have a mercurial barometer and removed the mercury.
That's a fancy Nimbus, wood cabinet and more switches than mine. I have the NWS Coop version. I have the manual if you need a copy.
Al
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Really neat collection. I had a ton of heathkit stuff in the day. Alas, it's pretty much gone. Sold at hamfests to fund new purchases. After all I am the gadget guy :grin:
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nice Princo Mercury Barometer =D>
Now you need to build one of these
Hazen Thermometer Shelters in the back yard lol
https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/hazen%20and%20stevenson/DSCF2088.jpg?w=319ca25b
I have the plans if you need them :-)
img]https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/hazen%20and%20stevenson/DSCF2088.jpg?w=319ca25b[/img]
(https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/hazen%20and%20stevenson/DSCF2088.jpg?w=319ca25b)
Bobby H
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Those older stations ought to last forever. Even thought I have a Vantage Pro2 Plus, I am very jealous.
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Very awesome collection! Man I wish!!!
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I still kick myself for not knuckling under and buying a couple of Nimbus instruments when they were being made "next door" in Concord (NH).......! ](*,)
Pricey......but worth every penny!!!! And built to last a lifetime!!!!
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That's some very nicely looked after gear and hats off for the composition in your pic below, just perfect! =D>
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/intuitiongirls/P9260083.jpg)
Mike
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I still kick myself for not knuckling under and buying a couple of Nimbus instruments when they were being made "next door" in Concord (NH).......! ](*,)
Pricey......but worth every penny!!!! And built to last a lifetime!!!!
I bought mine in '98. I think the thermometer alone was like $500. It's still plugging away. Here's the wind/speed & direction.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/nimbus_wind.jpg)
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I'm really envious, although I'm ancient myself - I only got into weather stations when I retired. Well done for taking such care that gear.
Keith
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WHAT a collection ! Thanks for sharing =D>
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Now you've got me curious about the OSI WIVIS device. Was this easy to set up and calibrate, or was it a hair puller?
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It's not too bad to setup. No calibration is necessary. It is self calibrating. The biggest pain is keeping the lenses clean. However, you don't need to check on it. It's actually smart enough to tell you when the lenses need cleaning.
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That is a Very cool set up. and I must admit I like a Combination of both analog and Digital.
and, I like the OSI WIVIS device. I first heard about real time weather sensors on Youtube and, had been
wondering if they were hard to set up. From what you just mentioned apparently not.
and, Yes I Agree you've got a Sweet Setup Hats Off!.
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Basically you have your own ASOS station... that AWSOME! That's my dream!!!
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Basically you have your own ASOS station... that AWSOME! That's my dream!!!
Thanks to ASOS I was able to aquire a lot of these that were being retired.
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Is member WxStation still around? Under a new name? Anyone know how to contact this person? I'm drooling over his collection!!! :shock:
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Yes I'm still here. I hosed up the WxStation account.
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Nice pics, WxStation! :D
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Here's a shot of me working the weather office at the airport keeping an eye on the weather for air traffic control and our wonderful pilots. The beige phone with the red light is the one you did not want to hear ring. If it rang it meant there's been an air mishap and I needed to secure all weather data. I had it ring twice on me. Luckily neither one was weather related. I have lots of stories from this office.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1508/24717674010_94a78f8bcb_b.jpg)
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It's been gone for over a year and I finally got my other Kollsman back from being tuned up. I was really happy when I set the elevation and it matched the other one. Also if you look at the photo above of the weather office, you will see the Kollsman in the rack. These were the standard for pressure before ASOS.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1677/24895231692_3e98c457d0_b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1531/24718094060_a2b77d66de_b.jpg)
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Those instruments bring back memories. Is that the readout for the rotating beam ceilometer in the middle of that rack??
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Those instruments bring back memories. Is that the readout for the rotating beam ceilometer in the middle of that rack??
Yes it is. That was the most annoying piece of gear we had. The noise it made when the pen sweeped across the chart. You had to listen to that all day long. It used thermal paper so you would see some bluish arcs of light come out of the pen as it marked the cloud base on the chart. We were always wondering who would be the first idiot to stick their finger under the pen and get zapped.
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A closet full of Heathkit Wx instruments. You could get a thousand dollars for all of that if you sell them on eBay. People like me love those Heathkits. I see their barograph in that picture. I used to drool over that as a kid when they offer it in their catalog. I'm very envious !
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I've had several questions about the Heathkit pieces. Here's a look at each one. I'm not interested in selling any of these at this point. In some cases I have both the assembled and unassembled version. The reason for having both is that I built some of these kits when I was a kid and didn't do a very good job building them. I decided shortly after high school that I wanted another shot at it. So I ordered the same kits again from Heathkit. However, I never got around to building any of them. My original goal was to build every single one of their weather kits.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7810/46203450035_4c7f4bc5dd_b.jpg)
GD-1019 Electronic Thermometer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/23841105263_1bb68ef6d9_b.jpg)
GD-1019 Electronic Thermometer
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3743/32461180893_ebaee65673_b.jpg)
ID-1290 Weather Station
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1567/24528638511_4877f86df0_b.jpg)
ID-1290 Weather Station
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1576/23984533573_fa421f14ae_b.jpg)
ID-1290 Weather Station (Partially assembled)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/24690052911_de316ecc30_b.jpg)
ID-1390B Electronic Digital Thermometer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1571/24355153322_b26a6773d7_b.jpg)
ID-1390B Electronic Digital Thermometer
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53454642804_081d007994_b.jpg)
ID-1490 Digital Clock/Thermometer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1606/23836639903_414de138a6_b.jpg)
ID-1490 Digital Clock/Thermometer
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/32431965284_4cd94cc54d_b.jpg)
ID-1590 Digital Wind Speed/Direction Indicator
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1537/24355183722_3d72b0ba14_b.jpg)
ID-1590 Digital Wind Speed/Direction Indicator
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1597/24355209032_5526449d5f_b.jpg)
ID-1790 Automatic Rain Gauge
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1572/24758085216_3ff4a6a6fc_b.jpg)
ID-1795 Digital Rain Gauge
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1605/24466610235_4aae0444c7_b.jpg)
ID-1795 Digital Rain Gauge
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/592/33306997885_9193642b8e_b.jpg)
ID-1890 Digital Wind Computer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1535/24381071141_9b936196cd_b.jpg)
IDW-1890 Digital Wind Computer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1583/24386090759_d787466433_b.jpg)
ID-1990 Digital Barometer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1555/24385085999_d3002edee2_b.jpg)
ID-2090 Digital Barograph
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1656/24167832120_72c1ee490e_b.jpg)
ID-2090 Digital Barograph
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1590/24156687543_e24ed03674_b.jpg)
ID-2295 Relative Humidity Indicator
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1519/23836669733_d02c5685ec_b.jpg)
ID-2295 Relative Humidity Indicator
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1570/24390792841_9ed2c74db9_b.jpg)
IDW-4001 Digital Weather Computer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1480/23835292724_e5dd54ae7d_b.jpg)
ID-4001 Digital Weather Computer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1562/24463488445_e29e488f9f_b.jpg)
IDW-5001-C Advanced Weather Computer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1553/23839649864_a0d211f2de_b.jpg)
IDA-5001-02 Advanced Weather Computer Rain Collector
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1494/24095657159_23e45f65b0_b.jpg)
8 conductor cable for kits
IDA-1290-02 (100 ft)
IDA-1290-03 (150 ft)
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WOW!!! You got a gold mine there is unboxed equipment!! Nope, I'm not asking if you want to sell... I would wonder though if you know where one could purchase a new mast unit, cups, vane and mounting pole? Thank you.
Don in Ohio
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WOW!!! You got a gold mine there is unboxed equipment!! Nope, I'm not asking if you want to sell... I would wonder though if you know where one could purchase a new mast unit, cups, vane and mounting pole? Thank you.
Don in Ohio
I'm not sure if the 5001 sensors can be modified to work on the 4001. You could try these guys.
http://www.webbcon.com/forecasttech/products.html (http://www.webbcon.com/forecasttech/products.html)
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WOW!!! You got a gold mine there is unboxed equipment!! Nope, I'm not asking if you want to sell... I would wonder though if you know where one could purchase a new mast unit, cups, vane and mounting pole? Thank you.
Don in Ohio
I'm not sure if the 5001 sensors can be modified to work on the 4001. You could try these guys.
http://www.webbcon.com/forecasttech/products.html (http://www.webbcon.com/forecasttech/products.html)
Thank you. The way I understand it is the 4001 and 5001 parts can be used on either station. However this company is out of business. I already checked into it, but thank you again.
Don in Ohio
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...and finally my very first weather station. This photo was taken in 1984. That's all for now.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1684/25013675205_486691f11e_b.jpg)
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These Heathkit photos bring back some memories.
I actually had two of these and "abandoned" them when I sold the houses. I wish now that I had taken them down and kept them.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/id1290_zps5cdc04ed.jpg)
It is really nice that you kept your first station, kcidwx. My dad and I built home built vanes, anemometer (calibrated by sticking it out the car window) and even a lightning sensor. There was a mA meter that I had to keep readjusting as the storm got closer but it really worked. It was some "Popular Electronics" kind of project and used a darlington transistor pair.
Greg H
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Hey kcidwx ... I just viewed your video of you unpacking and hooking up your H.K. 5001-ID weather station. Very cool!!! For anyone here who has not seen it I'm posting the direct link. Hope you do not mind. I posted a comment as well as gave it a thumbs up! Nice job. =D> Just one question... what did you use to get the wind speed so high while testing the alarm?
http://youtu.be/hRR5K_izD6k
Don in Ohio
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That is an amazing collection! I have a few older pieces of weather equipment that I am proud to own, maybe I will post a few pics soon. I enjoy the attention to detail and the craftsmanship that the older pieces have in comparison to the modern one I have now. VERY VERY COOL!!!!
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Hey kcidwx ... I just viewed your video of you unpacking and hooking up your H.K. 5001-ID weather station. Very cool!!! For anyone here who has not seen it I'm posting the direct link. Hope you do not mind. I posted a comment as well as gave it a thumbs up! Nice job. =D> Just one question... what did you use to get the wind speed so high while testing the alarm?
http://youtu.be/hRR5K_izD6k
Don in Ohio
No I don't mind. I just used my fingers to spin the shaft to get the high wind speed. Sorry the video is so dry. I was half asleep when I recorded it. :lol:
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Hey kcidwx ... I just viewed your video of you unpacking and hooking up your H.K. 5001-ID weather station. Very cool!!! For anyone here who has not seen it I'm posting the direct link. Hope you do not mind. I posted a comment as well as gave it a thumbs up! Nice job. =D> Just one question... what did you use to get the wind speed so high while testing the alarm?
http://youtu.be/hRR5K_izD6k
Don in Ohio
No I don't mind. I just used my fingers to spin the shaft to get the high wind speed. Sorry the video is so dry. I was half asleep when I recorded it. :lol:
And I was half asleep when I wrote my post last night lol.
What I think would be really cool with the amount of quality equipment you have would be a video tour of your stations in action indoors and out. You set ups would certainly be a great tool for anyone in the future who is wanting to set up a home weather station.
At any rate fine job on the video and thank you again for sharing it. I think I'll share it with my facebook friends.
Don in Ohio
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Some of the ID-1290 build.
This is a second uncompleted ID-1290 kit I picked up. The guy had started the assembly back in the late 80's and never finished it. So I'm going to finish building it.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/id1290build_zpse6fa8250.jpg)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/id1290build2_zpscbc7055a.jpg)
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Some of the ID-1290 build.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/id1290build_zpse6fa8250.jpg)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/id1290build2_zpscbc7055a.jpg)
Those photos bring back memories. 8-)
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I am VERY familiar with most of these units, what do you need to know?
ID-1290 and ID-1590 booms are completely interchangeable.
New teflon bearings can be found at D8apro.com but VBX.com has bearings that can be put in place of the teflon by using a 3/8 drill in your hand and gently expand the housing to accept the new metal bearings but don't go too deep into the housings.
As for the ID-4001 boom working on an ID-5001 console, yes, remove one wire from either end of the boom.
As for the ID-5001 boom working on an ID-4001 console, yes, add one wire between the wind vane and the cups.
New booms are NOT available. They go for around $200 on eBay.
I have been trying to find a cheap way to reproduce them but the last plastic quote I got was $80,000 for 200 units!!!
The bearings are available via VBX.com.
IR Diode and Transistor is available via Mouser or DigiKey.
I have the plastic encoder disks without the silk screen and the images for the silk screen, just have to figure out how to get the image on the plastic.
Circuit boards can be made by hand.
ID-4001 processors have a problem, they were made with too much phosphorus, thus they eat themselves alive.
If there are no numbers lit on an ID-4001 console, processor is bad.
If there are number but the barometer is 0.00 the VCO is bad.
The processors are available new via D8apro.com.
ID-4001 temp senors MUST be connected, or an equivalent circuit with a 6.3v zener and a resistor on each temp input or the VCO will not work right and the VCO affects the Barometer. New temp sensors are availbe vis D8apro.com
I have an LED conversion for the ID-1590 wind direction and units.
I like the Neon digits, besides, the console needs more amps from the 5 VDC power supply when 7 segment LED's are put in place for the Neon digits.
If there is not enough power the regulator cant regulate and you get a pulsating DC wave form on the logic chips causing them to not work right.
The Temp sensors for the ID-1290 and ID-1390 are nothing but two diodes in series.
They "should be balanced" for accuracy but not critical.
Any Heathkit related questions, I think I can answer.
Thanks
Steve
P.S. I do not work for D8apro.com or have any affiliation, I just know since I have bought parts from them.
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I get asked a lot about the reed switches in the 1590 and 1290 wind boom. I'm not aware of anybody that makes them. I've never been able to find the specs on the ones Heathkit used. It seems to be a mystery.
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The reed switches are availible on mouser.com or digikey.com or Jameco.com
I will measure the original switches and post it here. Then I will look in my parts bin for the supplier and part number since I'm pretty sure I bought new ones.
Thanks
Steve
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Steve (rookie, yeah, sure)
Thanks for sharing all the info in the message about the ID4001 and 5001.
Can you expand on how to convert the booms from one to the other. You mention adding or removing a wire, but with the 8 conductor bundle (if I remember correctly) that leaves me a bit of guesswork.
Were the optical choppers and sensors wired differently (I think the code pattern sent back was a bit different, maybe my memory cells are faulty) but other than that, to do a conversion from one to another, what's the basic change needed, and when you mention the wire connection method, which one specifically is added/removed, and what does it do to the boom?
Also, I have one 4001 station (amongst a couple sitting waiting for my attention) and it came from ebay at a good price, with an updated processor making it a bit faster and adding some extra functions. It sounds as if you've had experience with 4001s that have that update. Any comments on your station with this 'improvement' or don't you like it.
Thanks again for sharing your information and experience. Keeping these grand old devices running is a challenge and yet like car restorations, there is pride and a sense of accomplishment when one can be restored to functioning status.
I just have a wife who doesn't thing a tower or roof tripod covered with booms and anemometer things is especially helpful to adding value to the property. Little does SHE know!
Dale
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Hi Dale:
(The rookie user name come from chess, I like the Rooks :-)
I am happy to help fellow weather enthusiasts!
The main reason I like the Heathkit weather stations is one, they are nearly instant read, wind speed changes, and you will see it. The fastest modern weather station is 1.5 seconds, in a wind gust A LOT can change in 1.5 secs! Two, they are easy to see across the room except for the id-1290 with the meters. Last, they are "usually" easy to fix. Even the id-1590 with the neon display can "usually" be coaxed back to life with some short term higher current times to burn off the oxidation on the elements. I have two 4001, five 1290, eight 1590, one 1390.
The 4001 and 5001 booms and their parts are exactly the same between them, IR diodes and transistors, bearings, circuit boards, encoders, all the same. I can talk about the encoders in a later post if your interested. The only difference is wiring from the direction side to the speed side.
I have a document some place because I bought a 5001 boom and had to convert it to the 4001 and the wire goes from the direction side to the speed side of the boom.
(Doing this from memory and won't be able to give a detailed conversion right now but I will post it when I find it.)
The main harness is connected on the direction side and in the 4001 boom 4 wires go from the direction side to the speed side.
The 5001 boom is missing the 5VDC on the speed side since Heathkit redesigned the 5001 slightly by feeding the 5VDC through one of the wires going to the speed side instead of a separate wire for 5vdc.
So, all that has to be done to convert the 5001 boom to work with the 4001 is add a wire from the direction side to the speed side and wire it so the IR diode is on. An easy way to check if the IR diode is working is use your cell phone camera and look directly at the diode if your see it glowing in your phone, it's working.
(Sorry its not more detailed, I will look for the document and post the exact steps.)
The great thing about this is you can wire things up and try it, you blow anything out, the IR diodes and transistors are very forgiving.
I know because of all my attempts to get it working I soldered 5VDC to the wrong places and didn't break anything.
If someone has the 5001 boom portion of the schematic, I can tell whats missing, that's if I can't find my document.
(I had a 5001 for a short time and should have kept it but I got $495 on eBay for it. I should have made some notes about those types of differences but forgot.)
I installed the 4001 processor upgrade and was not able to calibrate the temp sensors. According to D8aPro I needed to put a 1meg ohm resistor across the calibrate switch since if the voltage is not right the processor goes wonky. And when switching from cal to operate it might see something it doesn't like because the switch is cheap and the bounce causes problems. So, my current 4001 is stock. I figured I will wait until the processor goes south and then deal with it. The only feature that might be worth installing the processor is the fade when switching between date and time. But I usually leave mine on time anyway.
I am always happy to help in anyway I can. Especially with Heathkit stuff.
As for your plight with your wife, I am in the same boat. But I do it and let her bitch and she gets over it.
Im also a ham operator so there's THAT whole side of things besides the weather stuff she hates.
I attached a annotated schematic of the 4001 boom, hope it helps.
Hope all this helps I'm happy to help in anyway I can.
Thanks for asking.
Steve
P.S. The 4001/5001 wind booms are susceptible to lighting EMP pulses. If yours suddenly stops working, suspect the IR Diodes/Transistors need to be replaced. D8apro has new ones. I had an electrical engineer look at the schematic and suggest some ways to help prevent EMP pulse problems. I have not implemented them yet but it's on the list of things to do.
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Hey, thanks for the load of info.
I'm like you, fix and not throw if possible.
That's why I'm a bit miffed that my othewise fully functional Davis VP Pro (original) has a funky humidity sensor and no replacements available, nor any offerings from Davis to provide a new part that 'looks' to the circuitry like the original.
Sort of a waste as far as I'm concerned, especially when friends fix vintage Collins stuff and old cars cruise the streets.
I haven't dug through the schematics for over a decade so I understand you're also not intimately familiar with the slight differences. I thought there were differences in the Grey Code sent down the wires, but that was awhile ago, too.
How do you 'easily' find which of the IR transistors or diodes are blown? I once replaced the whole darn set just because once unsoldered to test, you may as well put new ones in. Can you put the correct voltage across the diodes and have something indicate that it is lighted? I don't see well in the infrared!
Thanks again.
Oh, your alluded to cheap switches and no debounce circuitry. I wonder why, for something as classy looking and the decades of design excellence (usually) for Heath, that things like that, the crappy humidity sensor circuit, the lack of EMF protection, etc, got past them? For a grand back then for the kit, which is a lot more now, you'd think the circuitry would be top notch. Sigh.
Dale
K9ELD
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The only Heathkit issue I have never been able to resolve is with the IDW-5001. I cannot figure out why the barometer jumps 0.02 inch when the buzzer sounds and then returns to the correct reading when it stops. Initially I thought the pressure transducer was so sensitive that it was responding to the sound pressure created from the buzzer inside the cabinet. The buzzer is very loud. Then I took the cabinet off and put a piece of duct tape over the buzzer. I could barely hear it and it still jumps 0.02 inch. I think that eliminates it being sound pressure. Both the pressure transducer and the buzzer are on the main board. The buzzer is a Star QMB-01. Anyway, someday I'll figure it out. :lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1469/24386918193_63a82dd648_b.jpg)
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Hi Dale:
I have found the Humidity sensors on most weather stations to be weak. My old Oregon Scientific WMR 968 had the outdoor thermo/Hygro sensor replaced twice! since after a few years it would go WAY out of spec for humidity. Thats why is stay away from LaCrosse weather stations, they are horrible AND they do not allow companies to query their serial protocol! They will tell you, if you use their protocol wrong it will brick the console and they will not replace it! Huh? What? Duh! If you want people to use your stuff make it easy for them!
As for the Grey code, no differences.
As for the IR diode, use your cell phone camera, it "sees" infrared.
As for the switch issue, as good as Heathkit was, and some of their designs were quite ingenious, they did some things, like cheap switches and other silly things. There is a high voltage power supply where they really should have used resistors across the rectifier diodes and didn't and they were lucky in that case because "usually" the diodes came from the same lot and had very similar specs.
The other thing they did on the 4001 is both temp sensors HAVE to be connected or the VCO doesn't work right. Since if only one is connected the balance is off and the resistor network for the VCO pulls the voltage in one direction. There is an equivalent circuit that can be connected in it's place and then the barometer will read right. But whats the point of having baro only? The VCO is not used for the wind readings thus they are not affected by missing temp sensors.
Hope that helps.
Steve
NO9B
P.S. We are not far from each other. If your ever in Milwaukee ping me and maybe we can meet.
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My first guess is the buzzer is in the same circuit as the sensor and when it buzzer sounds it causes the VCO to change it's voltage enough for the processor to "see" it. It may be a simple as wiring the buzzer directly to the 5 VDC supply instead of picking it off someplace where it might affect the VCO. It depends if they are sourcing or sinking through the buzzer. In looking at your picture it looks like they are using a Transistor to turn on the buzzer. Also, the sensor does not like bright light, it will cause it to read different in bright light, a short piece of black tubing put on the sensor will help that problem.
Can you take a good picture of the schematic where the sensor and the buzzer are?
If you can and send it to me I will be happy to look at it.
Also, since you have a 5001 could you take a picture of the schematic where the wind boom wiring is, there is another post I am help with on the difference between the 4001 and 5001 wind boom wiring?
I can help but I need the schematic.
Hope that helps.
Steve
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Hi Dale:
(The rookie user name come from chess, I like the Rooks :-)
I am happy to help fellow weather enthusiasts!
The main reason I like the Heathkit weather stations is one, they are nearly instant read, wind speed changes, and you will see it. The fastest modern weather station is 1.5 seconds, in a wind gust A LOT can change in 1.5 secs! Two, they are easy to see across the room except for the id-1290 with the meters. Last, they are "usually" easy to fix. Even the id-1590 with the neon display can "usually" be coaxed back to life with some short term higher current times to burn off the oxidation on the elements. I have two 4001, five 1290, eight 1590, one 1390.
This is why I use the RM Young 5103 wind sensor and ignore the data coming from my Davis anemometer. You are not getting accurate instantaneous peak wind data with the Davis. It's my biggest pet peeve when it comes to wind speed data. No sample rates. I don't care what the WMO says :lol:
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ID-5001 Wind Speed/Direction Diagram (http://www.jimsweathersite.com/images/IMG_1519.JPG)
ID-5001 Main Board Diagram (http://www.jimsweathersite.com/images/IMG_1529.JPG)
If you need a close up of a particular area let me know. These diagrams are poster size. Way too big for a scanner.
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Yup, love instant read wind instruments!
Hard to justify the cost though. Especially when the wife looks at everything I do as silly.
Quite a few nice instant read devices. RM Young being top notch
Thanks for the confirmation.
Steve
Hi Dale:
(The rookie user name come from chess, I like the Rooks :-)
I am happy to help fellow weather enthusiasts!
The main reason I like the Heathkit weather stations is one, they are nearly instant read, wind speed changes, and you will see it. The fastest modern weather station is 1.5 seconds, in a wind gust A LOT can change in 1.5 secs! Two, they are easy to see across the room except for the id-1290 with the meters. Last, they are "usually" easy to fix. Even the id-1590 with the neon display can "usually" be coaxed back to life with some short term higher current times to burn off the oxidation on the elements. I have two 4001, five 1290, eight 1590, one 1390.
This is why I use the RM Young 5103 wind sensor and ignore the data coming from my Davis anemometer. You are not getting accurate instantaneous peak wind data with the Davis. It's my biggest pet peeve when it comes to wind speed data. No sample rates. I don't care what the WMO says :lol:
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FANTASTIC!
Excellent pictures. Just what I need. Thank you VERY much.
At first quick glance the VCO and the buzzer are on the same 15vdc supply.
There might be another component on the 15vdc supply that is drawing more current and when the buzzer turns on it can't regulate anymore and the voltage drops causing the change in the baro reading since it's also on the same 15vdc buss.
I will dig into it more and post back. Thanks again for the pictures.
By the way are you handy with a volt meter? If you are we can run some tests to see what's going on.
Thanks
Steve
ID-5001 Wind Speed/Direction Diagram (http://www.jimsweathersite.com/images/IMG_1519.JPG)
ID-5001 Main Board Diagram (http://www.jimsweathersite.com/images/IMG_1529.JPG)
If you need a close up of a particular area let me know. These diagrams are poster size. Way too big for a scanner.
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Weather Display software I use has settings for alternative wind inputs and I've seen this on YouTube with an Inspeed anemometer which gave 1 second wind updates. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ixk-_inybyk Inspeed sensors are a bit cheaper than R.M. Young. Of course you don't need Weather Display.
Cheaper alternative to the R.M. Young system. If you're looking for live wind info.
http://www.inspeed.com/wind_data_logging/Windworks.asp
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Even better would be if he had access to an oscilloscope and watch when the buzzer came on. Drop in voltage, very noisy signal introduced onto the 15v buss when the buzzer buzzes? All questions.
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If the buzzer is a coil with interrupter contacts, lotsa noise over a wide spectrum from the contact arcing. A capacitor in series with a 100 Ohm resistor wired across the contact points may decrease the electrical noise. It's called a 'snubber'. If it's a piezo alarm, nevermind.
Reverting away from Heath back to page 1. Anyone interested in a completely dead Capricorn II Digital Weather Control by Hinds. It's in a solid oak cabinet. A piece of oak front frame is missing. Best offer. The mfr won't provide schematic or info. 3 voltage regulators are all out of tolerance of voltage outputs. Totally dark & no sensors.
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Dales idea is a good one to use an o-scope.
And wxtech's idea of a cap is also, good.
According to what I see in the schematic it "appears" it's a speaker! not a buzzer.
Circuitry in front of the "speaker" indicates it really is a speaker since there is an oscillator circuit.
The ultimate question is, does kcidwx have any of the test equipment needed to trouble shoot the problem with our direction?
kcidwx?
Thanks
Steve
If the buzzer is a coil with interrupter contacts, lotsa noise over a wide spectrum from the contact arcing. A capacitor in series with a 100 Ohm resistor wired across the contact points may decrease the electrical noise. It's called a 'snubber'. If it's a piezo alarm, nevermind.
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Thank much for the websites!
I will add them to my list.
As a complete side note, there is a guy on eBay selling NRG Anemometers and wind vanes
http://www.ebay.com/usr/anemometryoutfitters
I bought some of his stuff, the anemometers are AC generators and the wind vanes are 5k pots.
They work as good replacements for the Taylor weather stations.
Have to make some adjustments to the settings inside but they do work.
Thanks much!
Steve
P.S. Do you think we should start a separate topic on the Heathkit weather stations?
Weather Display software I use has settings for alternative wind inputs and I've seen this on YouTube with an Inspeed anemometer which gave 1 second wind updates. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ixk-_inybyk Inspeed sensors are a bit cheaper than R.M. Young. Of course you don't need Weather Display.
Cheaper alternative to the R.M. Young system. If you're looking for live wind info.
http://www.inspeed.com/wind_data_logging/Windworks.asp
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Dales idea is a good one to use an o-scope.
And wxtech's idea of a cap is also, good.
According to what I see in the schematic it "appears" it's a speaker! not a buzzer.
Circuitry in front of the "speaker" indicates it really is a speaker since there is an oscillator circuit.
The ultimate question is, does kcidwx have any of the test equipment needed to trouble shoot the problem with our direction?
kcidwx?
Thanks
Steve
If the buzzer is a coil with interrupter contacts, lotsa noise over a wide spectrum from the contact arcing. A capacitor in series with a 100 Ohm resistor wired across the contact points may decrease the electrical noise. It's called a 'snubber'. If it's a piezo alarm, nevermind.
I have a multimeter but no oscilloscope. I believe it is a speaker but they list the part as a buzzer/transducer. The original part is a Star Micronics QMB-01. This is the replacement part.
http://www.challengeelectronics.com/data/pdf/CEET160B140-27-103-20P7.6LHR.pdf (http://www.challengeelectronics.com/data/pdf/CEET160B140-27-103-20P7.6LHR.pdf)
I was just told by Don at D8apro that the pressure jump from the speaker is normal operation of the ID-5001. I find it hard to believe that this was considered acceptable. He states it's sound pressure but I think I confirmed it's not. Ideally I wanted to find someone with a working one to confirm if theirs did the same thing. I had three of these units 20 years ago and I don't remember any of them doing this. It's also possible I just never noticed it or my memory has faded. :lol:
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There is a guy I know who has a 5001, I will ask him if his does the same thing.
You are correct, by the looks of the spec sheet, it's a buzzer.
On a side note, you did put a piece of tape over it without success. Just for the hell of it try putting a piece of plastic tube on the baro sensor and run it into a box with a hole in it or if you have a long enough tube under a door with the door closed.
Or a dresser stuck in the clothing.
All of these are to dampen the sound pressure "if" that is really the problem.
The pressure should still be stable from atmospheric pressure and should not be influenced by the buzzer if it really is sound pressure.
Thanks
Steve
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I did put a piece of duct tape over the buzzer and it made no difference. Here is Don's reply on the issue. It definitely makes sense but it seems I have proven it can't be sound pressure by putting tape over the buzzer.
It is normal operation. The speaker can increase the pressure reading by adding sound waves to the inside of the box. The pressure sensor interprets these sound waves as increased pressure (it actually IS increased pressure). You can also notice the barometer change if the console is setting close to your stereo speakers and the volume is turned up. I seem to recall that this was in the manual somewhere, but I don't remember where. In the 'Circuit Description' section, it tells you that the sensitivity of the pressure sensor is 0.05 V / Inch. A 0.02 Inch change represents only a 1 milli-Volt change from the pressure sensor.
You could place a resistor in series with the speaker to reduce the sound level. This will then reduce or eliminate the jump in the reading.
We once (at Heathkit) connected the circuit of the barometer output, through a capacitor, into a cheap audio amplifier and discovered that we could use the barometer sensor as a microphone. Not a very good one, but a microphone just the same. Sound waves are actually pressure waves.
Isn't science wonderful???
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Thanks for forwarding his response, yes interesting but I agree with you, I think you proved, in your case, it's not sound pressure.
LOVE these old stations!
Thanks
Steve
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Just to make things even more complicated, the buzzer will either emit a steady tone or it will beep. Regardless of whether it beeps or emits a steady tone the barometer will increase 0.02. However, there is also the option to turn on the keypad chirp. Every time you press a key on the keypad the buzzer emits a chirp. You can sit there and push a keypad button in rapid succession to create repeated chirps until you are blue in the face and there's no pressure increase. Figure that one out :lol:
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My suggestion of adding a snubber assumed that it was a mechanical buzzer with contacts. This is a piezo transducer.
Troubleshoot by removing it or disconnect one lead. Or you could insert a 100 Ohm resistor temporarily in place of the transducer to see if the load still caused the disruption. It's a 1.5 volt transducer drawing 18 ma. If it's defective, it may be drawing more current than normal.
While you have the old one off the ckt board, replace it with a new one.
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Where in the circuit would be a good place to test to see if it's actually only drawing 18mA?
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Lift one lead of the buzzer and setup your meter for current.
Connect one lead to the buzzer and one to the circuit board where the lifted lead was then make it buzz.
Wxtechs idea of putting a resistor in it's place will definitively tell if it's "sound" pressure or a circuit/component problem.
Thanks
Steve
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It's soldered flush with the board so I'll have to remove it. No chance of getting just one lead out. I'm working with a guy to order a couple buzzers just in case. Let me know if your friend sees the same issue with his. I also sent an email to the guy selling one on eBay asking if he will grab the outdoor temperature sensor in his hand to set off the buzzer and see if his does it. I don't know if he'll bother with it or not. If it's normal operation, then I'll leave it alone but that's what I want to try and confirm. I'll try and get to Radio Shack this weekend and pick up a 100 Ohm resistor.
Now let me add this into the mix. Maybe this is the same as removing the buzzer from the circuit. What triggers the buzzer is an alert. I use the wind speed to set it off. Once it goes over 35 mph, it triggers the ALERT on the display and sets the buzzer off. You can disable the buzzer from the keypad and still trigger the ALERT on the display. The barometer does not change when you do this.
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As wxtech pointed out the buzzer may be bad in the sense it's drawing more current than it's supposed to which is taxing the 15vdc supply and will change the voltage on the calibration resistors for the baro sensor.
The 100 ohm resistor is a really good idea since it allows the circuit to operate as "if" the buzzer was really still there AND eliminates the sound pressure issue.
The more you post the more the scales are tipping in the direction of a bad buzzer or other component in the "buzzer" circuit. IMHO.
Thanks
Steve
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I would just remove & replace the transducer to see if that fixes it. The 100 Ohm that I suggested is just 'ball park' value. Calculated is 83 Ohms and 82 is a standard value easy to find.
Quoted earlier that .02" pressure change is only 1mv change from the sensor. The problem could be that your DC voltage regulator isn't tight enough regulation and your DC supply varies too much when the buzzer loads the DC line. Some 'decoupling' capacitors may be needed at the sensor or the regulator.
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I'll start with replacing the buzzer if I get confirmation from another unit that it's not normal operation. I don't want to take it all apart if there's nothing wrong with it.
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I have three of these units around here somewhere, but I think they are all stored in a box out in my shed, hoping some day before I die to get one of them on line again. If the wx holds, I'll get one up and running as much as it will to see if my unit does this too.
The best thing would be to lift a lead on the buzzer/speaker and see if it quits. But I sure would stick my scope on it if/when I get one to do this.
I can see the noise increasing pressure... for 1/2 the cycle, then it sucks, so to speak.
The statement from the gentleman at D8pro would indicate that this is a common behavior amongst these devices.
I agree, this should NOT have been acceptable to the engineer signing off on the design and production of this elegant, cool looking unit that was held in high esteem back in it's day, and if ONLY the VP3 pro would have such a snazzy display!
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The reed switches are availible on mouser.com or digikey.com or Jameco.com
I will measure the original switches and post it here. Then I will look in my parts bin for the supplier and part number since I'm pretty sure I bought new ones.
Thanks
Steve
Did you ever get a chance to look for these? I've talked to several people that have found switches the exact same size but they don't work. Either stay open or closed. The one guy has tried 12 different switches and none of them worked. Put the Heathkit switches back in and worked fine. I'd like to get a couple for my 1790.
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Here's the F420C now retired from the weather office.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1543/24386955493_3810302f9b_b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1544/24386964563_0412f209a9_b.jpg)
Psychrometer
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/25013828315_949572f99c_b.jpg)
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I can bring nothing to any of these conversations. However I have absolutely loved reading through all the memories and stories about past jobs, builds, weather equipment setups, and expertise.
I absolutely love analog in anything. I am completely dyslexic, so analog fits me like a glove and the polished look of an analog instrument is just classic.
Gentlemen, it has been a pure pleasure to read through this post and the pictures are phenomenal.
Randall
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Someone has some money .....
Not anymore he doesn't. He spent it all on his 'toys' lol.
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I think this is probably the original 11" rain gauge. I can't find a date anywhere on it but I know it's old.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1691/24383266694_74fa2933c6_b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1635/25026276705_f34f13d59a_b.jpg)
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I'm guessing the 60s.
Dale
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I wonder if that Taylor gauge is the direct ancestor of the current "Stratus" CoCoRaHS gauge. It sure looks like it, except for the bracket.
Greg H.
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It could be, when I started just out of HS 1976, NWS sent that exact rain gauge along with official NWS MAX/Min thermometers to go into my cotton region shelter purchased. We used an instrument called a pencil for keeping records back then.
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First time I've seen this thread. Wow, does that equipment bring back memories. I used much of it professionally for the better part 30 years, until digital took over, especially the Kollsman altimeter. Blast from the past. Thanks for sharing! =D>
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Randy,
A pencil? #2 Ticanderoga or wasn't it that high class?
How did you do backups? And generate spreadsheets?
As an aside, my uncle, now dead over 20 years at age 93 was one who would record the max and min temps from overnight on an old Taylor Max/Min U-shaped with the red magnet for resetting that I got as a Christmas present, along with how much rain we had at the home place, along with significant storms or hail and such.
We found some of his old notebooks while cleaning out his stuff and it was pretty neat he took that good of care to record the conditions.
I wonder if we're better off now, or were even more in touch back then having to make the notations rather than watch the data dumps.
Dale
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I honestly don't enjoy weather observing like I used to. Technology has taken the fun out of it. I really liked going outside every hour to read the instruments at the airport and writing down the readings on the NWS form. This automated crap is for the dogs. Although when there's a blizzard going on outside I'm not complaining about the automated instruments then. :lol:
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I honestly don't enjoy weather observing like I used to. Technology has taken the fun out of it. I really liked going outside every hour to read the instruments at the airport and writing down the readings on the NWS form. This automated crap is for the dogs. Although when there's a blizzard going on outside I'm not complaining about the automated instruments then. :lol:
That F420C looks very appealing. :lol: Have you ever considered selling some of your equipment you do not use?
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KCIDWX:
Sorry to not address you by surname,
It is interesting to have someone who did live in the era of going to take readings 'manually' and to hear about that.
I had a couple of guys I knew who, when I arrived here in 1976, who worked for the Flight Service Station, and did similar and then recorded the loop that was broadcast to the pilot advisory frequency, and also as a real human behind the mic, would give updates on demand over the air to the pilots and also you could call and get a wx briefing before a flight. I sure learned a lot from their interactions. But with consolidation, the station at KEAU was closed and they remotely did their work from across the state at Green Bay, plus the demand was down with all the computer stuff available, too, for information. But there was nothing like a one on one briefing. Too bad some pilots didn't make use of it.
The other thought I had was if you have ever read a book called The Children's Blizzard? The time frame was 1888, I believe, and I was astounded at the sophistication of weather observation at the time, when the guys entrusted with doing it, did it.
There was a series of stations and relays from the Midwest all the way up towards Canada, I believe, and those were forwarded by telegraph to Washington, DC, if I recollect, correctly.
The observer in St. Paul was known for his dedication going out even in heavy rain or bad winter weather to get very careful observations, without fail, and also was interested enough to study the data that he was seeing come down from further out stations. Part of the problem was that some of the 'observers' were dry lab-ing it, and falsified or observed poorly.
The thought that prediction was being done based on upstream areas, and that the patterns seen based on data collected were used to predict what might be coming was astounding to me. At best, I thought at that time someone might make some wild assed guess and maybe make a few notes. This was a century and a half ago and very earnest attempts were being made by dedicated chaps to undertake the study of weather and prediction.
If you're familiar with the book, you'll know how well the author writes. If you're not familiar, it is WELL worth getting and reading of the blizzard and the terrible price that the pioneers paid for their trying to settle and farm the area.
Dale
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I remember going out to take readings one evening in 1993 and it was hailing. I grabbed the Federal Meteorological Handbook off the office desk and put it over my head and went outside.
I kept a ream of the weather forms we had to fill in every hour. I'll have to look for them and scan them. In 1994, all the digital stuff started coming into the office.
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I remember going out to take readings one evening in 1993 and it was hailing. I grabbed the Federal Meteorological Handbook off the office desk and put it over my head and went outside.
I kept a ream of the weather forms we had to fill in every hour. I'll have to look for them and scan them. In 1994, all the digital stuff started coming into the office.
Did you guys have to send your obs. to Asheville, NC. for review? If I remember, some insane number was required to pass, like 98%? It's been a long time so I may be out in left field.
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Yes, we had to send all our weather data to Asheville for quality control. Your station as a whole had to maintain above 98%. I was consistently above 99%, usually around 99.2%. I guess that's why everybody in the office liked me so much. They could slack off knowing that I would pull the stations quality control numbers up above the minimum threshold. Jerks! hahaha!!!
The weather office was a one man show. It was nice having the entire office to yourself to work your shift. We had a staff of six to rotate shifts 24/7/365. I always worked 2nd shift, 4:00 to midnight.
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We had a guy that had just passed his certification test and was coming in to work his first shift. The forecast was for freezing precipitation and fog. I asked the station manager if he was going to have that guy work his very first shift with bad weather predicted. He's like, yeah why not? I said, work all by himself even? He said, I'll be at home watching the local on 8's on the weather channel so I'll be able to see if he's doing OK.
The next day I came into work and I checked over his data and it wasn't good. I was surprised the NWS WFO office didn't call him during his shift and ask him what the hell he was doing. He was sending out things like an obscured ceiling with vertical vsby with 3/4 mile prevailing vsby and an RVR of 700. That's a no-no! :lol:
He said while working his shift one of the air traffic controllers called him and asked what they were supposed to make of that weather data. Well, you can make a hat or a broach or a pterodactyl. LOL!! (airplane movie reference) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7fchtEJpy8)
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Back in my Navy days, an Electrowriter was use to send the obs up to us in the tower. We could always tell which weather guesser was working by it's legibility, or lack thereof. :lol: Resends were common.
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In 1978 the Air Force replaced the Electrowriter with the Talos Telenote. It was a modern technology system based on a touch pad similar to that used now on laptops. The system main transmitters at Kirtland AFB/Albuquerque International Airport was National Wx Service and the Kirtland Wx Station. Other sites (Airport Tower) had transceivers also in case they needed to put out a notice. There were more than 10 stations on the dedicated telephone line network, most were receivers only. Base Ops, Munitions Control, Continental Airlines, etc.
Al
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This is what we used to send data to the tower.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/57.jpg)
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That's Star Wars compared to an Electrowriter. :-P
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Holy cr@p, Batman... I haven't thought of Electrowriters in decades! I had a pair that was last used at a harness racing track in the Midwest in the 70s. I think they were used to communicate between the racing stewards and the announcers booth.
I was a tower cameraman for a couple of seasons in my late teens. And therein hang some tales...
That's Star Wars compared to an Electrowriter. :-P
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Holy cr@p, Batman... I haven't thought of Electrowriters in decades! I had a pair that was last used at a harness racing track in the Midwest in the 70s. I think they were used to communicate between the racing stewards and the announcers booth.
I was a tower cameraman for a couple of seasons in my late teens. And therein hang some tales...
That's Star Wars compared to an Electrowriter. :-P
That's why I love this thread. :grin:
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This was our connection to the NWS WFO
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/Radio_Shack_TRS-80_Model_100.jpg)
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You need to open a museum.
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I think this is probably the original 11" rain gauge. I can't find a date anywhere on it but I know it's old.
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/taylor_2701-box.jpg)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/kcidwx/taylor_2701-clear-vu.jpg)
I had the Taylor Clear Vu rain gauge attached to the side of my weather Shelter back in 1977 or there abouts. I still used it even when I added the NWS Standard 8 inch rain gauge. The clear vu was very close to the NWS Standard 8 inch gauge in its measurements. Great for catching snow. Now the staandard for Cocorash !
Tony
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I took down my OWI-430 for annual maintenance tonight before the snow starts to fly and thought I'd post some pics of it. This is made by the same company that makes the LEDWI for the ASOS.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1569/25014123395_13e0ae9fc2_b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1586/24388165823_72bf184b96_b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1673/24921785921_447cc07560_b.jpg)
The silver metal probe on the bottom of the housing by the cable is the temperature sensor used to turn on the lens heaters.
Measures precipitation accumulation (all types), precipitation rate, precipitation type & intensity (light, moderate, heavy).
Measures visibility 0 to 12 miles.
When I first put this up 5 years ago, the neighbors around me were talking among themselves asking all kinds of questions about it thinking it was some type of camera system. Finally one of them caught me outside and asked me what it was. :lol:
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Hey Jim ... What weather station(s) do you currently have up and running and what do you take your official daily readings from for all variables?
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Only weather station currently in use is the Davis Weather Monitor II
I probably have the most optioned/accurate PWS in the country. I haven't seen any PWS sites reporting visibility or present weather. Also all electronic sensors are NIST tested & certified each year.
Instruments Currently In Use for Official Daily Readings
Temperature: Sensatronics Nimbus Ultra (Accuracy: 0.2°F)
Humidity: Vaisala HMT337 (Accuracy: 1%)
Wind Speed/Direction: RM Young 05103 Wind Monitor (Accuracy: 0.6 mph)
Barometer: ASI DBX1 (Accuracy: 0.007 inches)
Rain: Belfort 5-780 Rain Gauge (Accuracy: 0.5%) I don't waste my time with tipping buckets anymore.
Snow: High Sierra Electronics Standard 8 Inch
Lightning: Boltek LD-350
Visibility: OSI OWI-430
Present Weather: OSI OWI-430
Others Currently In Use:
Barometer: Vaisala HB-1A
Barometer: Princo Mercury Barometer 453XBI
Barometer: Kollsman Altimeter Setting
Barometer: Belfort Microbarograph 5-800A
Wet/Dry Bulb: Belfort 566 Psychron
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Checking on ASOS. Yep it's working. :lol:
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ASOS DCP
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ASOS ACU Cabinet
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Inside ASOS ACU Cabinet
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WSR-88D
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CES Barometer
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Is this the beta version of the new Davis VP3?
I don't have the room in my computer shack, gotta knock out a wall if I'm upgrading when it comes out.
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Yes it is! Code named "ASOS" :lol:
...and they thought they could keep it under wraps. #-o
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I must have one. I presume it includes a ceiliometer, which I have lusted for most of my adult life.
Those darned balloons and helium have become expensive.
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Are you opting for the WSR-88D add-on? Do you have a spot outdoors for that big soccer ball?
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I have 5 acres on the side of a hill and my 80' ham tower nicely clears it, so I think I can get it there, especially with the tilt functionality you so nicely demonstrate. I just hope I don't nuke any of the turkey vultures which like to sail in the updrafts over the hill.
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Having fun!
https://youtu.be/kawRdHVNLJU (https://youtu.be/kawRdHVNLJU)
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=D>
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This is the coolest thread that I have seen in awhile! I love looking at all of this cool stuff! Ebay is a good friend!
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The only Heathkit issue I have never been able to resolve is with the IDW-5001. I cannot figure out why the barometer jumps 0.02 inch when the buzzer sounds and then returns to the correct reading when it stops. Initially I thought the pressure transducer was so sensitive that it was responding to the sound pressure created from the buzzer inside the cabinet. The buzzer is very loud. Then I took the cabinet off and put a piece of duct tape over the buzzer. I could barely hear it and it still jumps 0.02 inch. I think that eliminates it being sound pressure. Both the pressure transducer and the buzzer are on the main board. The buzzer is a Star QMB-01. Anyway, someday I'll figure it out. :lol:
This is resolved. I just happened to stumble upon some more paperwork in the basement for my ID-5001. It seems I actually sent it in for repair to Heathkit in 1995 under warranty and don't even remember doing it. The service ticket explains the barometer jump when the alarm goes off as normal. Really crappy engineering if you ask me. Oh well, at least I don't have to wonder anymore.
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It says: Note: The .02 change in barometric pressure when audio alert sounds is normal due to ICU410, which is a signal switching IC, & is common to temp, pressure & light control signals, also audio alert signal. This change is only momentary & will not affect overall accuracy.
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Well, then it was a well known design problem. So much for superior Heathkit engineering.
Thank you for closing the loop. I still haven't dug out the one I have packed away to do the test you were asking about, so now I won't feel the need to do that when I see the box the next time.
That was the top of the line, epitome of stuff when they came out. The dreams of every weather nut and kid hoping to have that on their shelf. I remember seeing on in person for the first time at the Hamvention in Dayton OH, and lusting after it's blue screen and promising to be good so Santa would bring me one. When that didn't work, I began to save up and finally got one that my son and I built together. At the time I was amazed at the lengths they went to in order to engineer the back light dimming, thinking there must be some better solution than that. Oh well, still a very neat item and one that I wish would have been improved and still available.
If only the VP3 would have such a nice display and background.... sigh.
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When I was the RWIS coordinator for the state DOT I was out at this site to re-calibrate the visibility sensor. About 5 days later I noticed it wasn't reading correct again. So I drove the 1.5 hours again to the site and found this. After studying radar data from a thunderstorm that passed over the site, I came to the conclusion this was caused by a microburst. About a week later the state patrol contacted me and said they had cars blown off the highway that you can see in the background of the second photo. These are Glen Martin MT-1331 meteorological towers. They can take a pretty good beating.
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Any wind data before it was destroyed? My highest wind speed recorded was a nighttime heat burst from decaying TS. 1:30 AM June 20th, temperature shot up and recorded 62 mph wind.
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The RM Young doesn't appear to be in too bad of shape. At least 3 out of the 4 blades on the wind propeller look OK. How did all of the sensors survive after the tower itself was fixed?
Greg H.
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Jim,
Don't be too fast to blame a microburst downdraft.
It looks like the work of a hungry, I just woke up for spring, black bear.
Notice the front gate is open to the pad, and the tower has gone the other way.
We have some very intelligent bruins here who have discovered that if you push it might not go over, but if you get a lot of pushes in resonance, it finally does.
Next time use the wooden pole stock that the power company did for their lines. Those look intact.
BTW, has the company that supplies those units done any wind loading calculations (seems they should have, being a government sale and installation) to see what the loading is? Maybe it was just an Achilles Heel type of angle/gust/caught during a spring-back type of thing that made it go over.)
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Any wind data before it was destroyed? My highest wind speed recorded was a nighttime heat burst from decaying TS. 1:30 AM June 20th, temperature shot up and recorded 62 mph wind.
Just checked your archives on WU. This "heat burst" you describe could have been a bore passage. Bores are wave like features that occur at night within a stable boundary layer through which they propagate. It's passage mixes the boundary layer and mixes warmer air aloft down to the surface. What's interesting is that the temp then fell pretty quickly after it's sharp rise. I'll have to look at some radar data to see what was going on in the area at the time. Whatever this boundary was may not have been a bore, but could have been enough to have this same mixing effect.
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Thanks Alex. One of the North Platte meteorologist thought it may of been a heat burst. All I remember was there was TS activity in area and looks like a frontal boundary possible with the drop in temperatures and pressure rise at same time. I'll include graphs for others. It still stands as my highest wind speed and the house shook pretty good.
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No wind speeds were recorded during the event. Thunderstorms were training over the area and the previous one knocked power out to the site. It did come back online by itself once power was restored. It just wasn't providing very good data. :lol: Everything had to be replaced except the RPU electronics, temperature/humidity sensor and the RM Young sensor.
I did talk to the farmer whose field is behind the tower and asked him about the wind speed. He said he had no idea but that he was home and it scared the <blank> out of him. :lol: I said well that satisfies my curiosity enough. I walked his field and noticed most of the tall plants, grasses were heavily leaning towards the north. The tower fell towards the north. I drove a few miles south and noticed most of the tall grasses, plants were leaning south. Almost in a flattened state.
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No wind speeds were recorded during the event. Thunderstorms were training over the area and the previous one knocked power out to the site. It did come back online by itself once power was restored. It just wasn't providing very good data. :lol: Everything had to be replaced except the RPU electronics, temperature/humidity sensor and the RM Young sensor.
I did talk to the farmer whose field is behind the tower and asked him about the wind speed. He said he had no idea but that he was home and it scared the <blank> out of him. :lol: I said well that satisfies my curiosity enough. I walked his field and noticed most of the tall plants, grasses were heavily leaning towards the north. The tower fell towards the north. I drove a few miles south and noticed most of the tall grasses, plants were leaning south. Almost in a flattened state.
Interesting. I was trying to make sense out of the wind load chart on the Glen Martin MF-1331 web page (http://glenmartin.com/product/mf-1331). The square feet (allowed?) at the various speeds "max projected area" seem to indicate that only 1 sq. ft. is OK at 110 mph. I suspect that the NEMA box alone is larger than that. I don't know what all of the mast items add up to but that tower might be good up to 100 mph or so, depending on the area.
I am glad to hear that the RM Young survived. One tough bird!
Greg H.
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Someone once told me that tower wind load was based on what was on top the tower in sq ft. I was going to try calculate the sq ft on the tower to come up with a probable wind speed. Then I had this thought that allowed sq ft would probably increase at a particular wind speed as you go down the tower. My thinking is that the NEMA box would put much more wind load on the tower at 30 feet than it does at 5 feet. Then it got complicated enough that I didn't care anymore to figure it out. :lol:
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Thanks Alex. One of the North Platte meteorologist thought it may of been a heat burst. All I remember was there was TS activity in area and looks like a frontal boundary possible with the drop in temperatures and pressure rise at same time. I'll include graphs for others. It still stands as my highest wind speed and the house shook pretty good.
Very interesting indeed. How often do you archive data locally (1 min, 5 min, 10 min...)? Would be interesting to see the higher resolution data. Sorry for going off topic again!
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Thanks Alex. One of the North Platte meteorologist thought it may of been a heat burst. All I remember was there was TS activity in area and looks like a frontal boundary possible with the drop in temperatures and pressure rise at same time. I'll include graphs for others. It still stands as my highest wind speed and the house shook pretty good.
Very interesting indeed. How often do you archive data locally (1 min, 5 min, 10 min...)? Would be interesting to see the higher resolution data. Sorry for going off topic again!
No prob! Interesting stuff. I'll have to see if I can find the video I took of my Weather Monitor II console recording a 112 mph wind in a derecho. I didn't even know it had 3 digits for wind on the LCD. :lol:
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Thanks Alex. One of the North Platte meteorologist thought it may of been a heat burst. All I remember was there was TS activity in area and looks like a frontal boundary possible with the drop in temperatures and pressure rise at same time. I'll include graphs for others. It still stands as my highest wind speed and the house shook pretty good.
Very interesting indeed. How often do you archive data locally (1 min, 5 min, 10 min...)? Would be interesting to see the higher resolution data. Sorry for going off topic again!
No prob! Interesting stuff. I'll have to see if I can find the video I took of my Weather Monitor II console recording a 112 mph wind in a derecho. I didn't even know it had 3 digits for wind on the LCD. :lol:
Wow, that must have been a bit scary to witness! :shock:
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Thanks Alex. One of the North Platte meteorologist thought it may of been a heat burst. All I remember was there was TS activity in area and looks like a frontal boundary possible with the drop in temperatures and pressure rise at same time. I'll include graphs for others. It still stands as my highest wind speed and the house shook pretty good.
Very interesting indeed. How often do you archive data locally (1 min, 5 min, 10 min...)? Would be interesting to see the higher resolution data. Sorry for going off topic again!
I do now every 30 seconds but not back then.
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Apparently I made someone happy this morning. :lol:
She does have her own visibility and present weather sensor on her PWS so those readings are not from the airport.
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I am interested in purchasing your Heathkit IDW-2090 Digital Barograph kits, either or both. I live in Alaska and these would make wonderful addition to my weather station! Best Regards, Richard
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I know this is an ancient thread but I just finally got around to documenting the adapter I built to enable a modern wind vane to be connected to the classic Heathkit ID-1590 console. Since it is a very simple circuit and I only needed one of them I hand wired the prototype on perfboard and did not bother to lay out a PCB for it. I designed it to use a "phantom power" technique that allows it to receive power directly from the Heathkit console in completely original form without needing any modifications to the console so no external power source is required. I used a set of NRG sensors I had but the Davis VantagePro boom should be directly compatible as well as any other potentiometer style wind vane. I am not selling anything and am not interested in producing these myself so it is a DIY solution. If somebody else would like to produce them for sale go right ahead, I am releasing this to the community. It may work on other similar weather stations but I have only tested it on the ID-1590 I have where it has been in use for about a year now and continues to work perfectly.
https://github.com/james10952001/Heathkit-ID-1590-adapter
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Cool old weatehr station
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I know this is an ancient thread but I just finally got around to documenting the adapter I built to enable a modern wind vane to be connected to the classic Heathkit ID-1590 console. Since it is a very simple circuit and I only needed one of them I hand wired the prototype on perfboard and did not bother to lay out a PCB for it. I designed it to use a "phantom power" technique that allows it to receive power directly from the Heathkit console in completely original form without needing any modifications to the console so no external power source is required. I used a set of NRG sensors I had but the Davis VantagePro boom should be directly compatible as well as any other potentiometer style wind vane. I am not selling anything and am not interested in producing these myself so it is a DIY solution. If somebody else would like to produce them for sale go right ahead, I am releasing this to the community. It may work on other similar weather stations but I have only tested it on the ID-1590 I have where it has been in use for about a year now and continues to work perfectly.
https://github.com/james10952001/Heathkit-ID-1590-adapter
Resurrecting a year comment to decades old post..will it work?
In reviewing your project notes I noticed you mention that you modified the sensor by replacing a pickup coil with a reed switch. As I have limited knowledge of the Davis Vantage Pro sensors, I have a question. I believe the 1590 uses 4 magnets and one reed switch in the anemometer portion of the sensor boom, creating 4 pulses per rotation of the cup asm. Does the Vantage Pro sensor also have 4 magnets and if not can you explain how you further modified the unit? Thanks