Author Topic: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada  (Read 12359 times)

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Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2013, 10:47:08 PM »
Cutting the pin off rather than snipping the socket might be a better way of doing it so you don't run the risk of cutting too much off the connector. I almost did that myself but it didn't damage the socket - thankfully.

As far as ensuring that you don't install board off one pin, you could always stick a piece of toothpick in the hole so you couldn't get the board in the socket. You still run the risk of bending a pin if you try to force it in though.


If you score with a sharp knife between the pins, all around, the whole section will snap right off without an issue. Or if you've got real sharp, small dikes, just cut between them. Now, I did have a bit of trouble with these tired ol' eyes finding the #1 pin locations when I inserted the display...  :lol:
Mike

I like the idea of scoring between the pins so the break is cleaner. Have added that suggestion to the step-by-step document.

I do have a pair of very small dikes that are very sharp. The socket just snapped right off exactly where I wanted it to. Perhaps I was lucky or was it just raw skill?  :roll:

Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Offline miraculon

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #26 on: September 30, 2013, 07:52:04 AM »
You could check the charge pump voltage that runs the display contrast:

Quote
Problem 3: I don’t see any readable information on the LCD!
First check, whether the board is powered via the mini USB jack of the controller, and not
via the mini USB jack of the STM32F4DISCOVERY board. Then check, if you accidentally
set the LCD contrast to 0 in the settings. Measure the contrast voltage with a volt meter.
It has to be around -4V. If this is ok and the display still doesn’t show anything, then the
communication between controller and LCD might be broken. Carefully check every pin.

This generated by the diode/capacitor circuit under the display.

Greg H.



Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
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Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #27 on: September 30, 2013, 11:40:14 AM »
You could check the charge pump voltage that runs the display contrast:

Quote
Problem 3: I don’t see any readable information on the LCD!
First check, whether the board is powered via the mini USB jack of the controller, and not
via the mini USB jack of the STM32F4DISCOVERY board.

Quote
The power is being inserted via the mini USB connector on the Controller board, not the Discovery board. I am reading between 4.9 and 5.0 volts at the input pin.

Then check, if you accidentally set the LCD contrast to 0 in the settings. Measure the contrast voltage with a volt meter.
It has to be around -4V. If this is ok and the display still doesn’t show anything, then the
communication between controller and LCD might be broken. Carefully check every pin.

Quote
I don't know how I could know whether the LCD contrast is set to 0. The display has never displayed anything at all other than a narrow line at the bottom of the display. If there is another setting I need to make, please tell me where and how I do that. As far as I know, I have to have a working display for me to see the IP address so I can use the web interface. So far, I don't have any way that I know of to see the status of anything on the board other than checking voltages and watching states of the various LEDs. Am I missing something?


This generated by the diode/capacitor circuit under the display.

Greg H.

I will check the voltages a bit later this morning. However, I am beginning to think I have a more basic issue starting with the GPS module function. After reading over the Blitzortung document, I think I had problems right from the start with the "First hardware check" (paragraph 1.3.10 page 15 of the August 23, 2013 Blitzortung documentation). The documentation only says "the green GPS fix LED should start blinking". Nothing more. Based on replies I've seen here in this thread, I believe that first hardware check should say "the green GPS fix LED should start blinking and then turn to a steady on condition once the GPS fix is attained". That would make it clear that you need more than just a blinking green LED which I do have and then it turns off and stays off. So, going back to the GPS part first, does the blinking of the green LED indicate that the GPS module is actually working correctly and generating signals or does it mean the GPS module is searching for an input signal and then times out after a minute or two if no GPS signal detected? The lack of signal could be a defective GPS antenna although it is new so probably okay. I never get a GPS lock on the internal or external antenna even with them in a window that I get locks on my other GPS devices. It's definitely not a problem with the GPS signal itself.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2013, 11:48:35 AM by W3DRM »
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Offline miraculon

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #28 on: September 30, 2013, 12:34:08 PM »
Quote
So, going back to the GPS part first, does the blinking of the green LED indicate that the GPS module is actually working correctly and generating signals or does it mean the GPS module is searching for an input signal and then times out after a minute or two if no GPS signal detected? The lack of signal could be a defective GPS antenna although it is new so probably okay. I never get a GPS lock on the internal or external antenna even with them in a window that I get locks on my other GPS devices. It's definitely not a problem with the GPS signal itself.

The way my working system operates is that from a cold start with no GPS fix, the green LED near the module blinks.
Once a fix has been achieved, it glows steady green.
A warm-reset (no power down) causes no change in GPS LED status. A power-cycle will start the blinking GPS LED again until it gets a fix. It is always on in normal operation with a GPS fix.

Greg H.



Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
CoCoRaHS: MI-PI-1
CWOP: CW4114 and KE8DAF-13
WU: KMIROGER7
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Offline saratogaWX

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #29 on: September 30, 2013, 01:13:39 PM »
My RED controller with 4.4 firmware works the way Don described:

On power up, the green LED beside the GPS module begins blinking, and after a fix is obtained, shuts off.  The green LED on the STM board flashes with the other LED while the fix is being obtained, then burns steady once the fix is found.

The blue LED on the STM board flashes at the 1PPS rate when the fix is obtained.

The big red LED at the top of the STM board flashes slowly, and the small red LED at the top of the STM board is on continuously.

Best regards,
Ken
Ken True/Saratoga, CA, USA main site: saratoga-weather.org
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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #30 on: September 30, 2013, 01:17:20 PM »
Cutting the pin off rather than snipping the socket might be a better way of doing it so you don't run the risk of cutting too much off the connector. I almost did that myself but it didn't damage the socket - thankfully.

As far as ensuring that you don't install board off one pin, you could always stick a piece of toothpick in the hole so you couldn't get the board in the socket. You still run the risk of bending a pin if you try to force it in though.


If you score with a sharp knife between the pins, all around, the whole section will snap right off without an issue. Or if you've got real sharp, small dikes, just cut between them. Now, I did have a bit of trouble with these tired ol' eyes finding the #1 pin locations when I inserted the display...  :lol:
Mike

I like the idea of scoring between the pins so the break is cleaner. Have added that suggestion to the step-by-step document.

I do have a pair of very small dikes that are very sharp. The socket just snapped right off exactly where I wanted it to. Perhaps I was lucky or was it just raw skill?  :roll:


I, too, used the sharp flush cutters to snip off the end pin (through the middle of the pin) very slowly, then trimmed the remaining socket using the cutters too.  The magnifiers helped :)


My RED controller with 4.4 firmware works the way Don described:

On power up, the green LED beside the GPS module begins blinking, and after a fix is obtained, shuts off.  The green LED on the STM board flashes with the other LED while the fix is being obtained, then burns steady once the fix is found.

The blue LED on the STM board flashes at the 1PPS rate when the fix is obtained.

The big red LED at the top of the STM board flashes slowly, and the small red LED at the top of the STM board is on continuously.

Best regards,
Ken
Ken True/Saratoga, CA, USA main site: saratoga-weather.org
Davis VP1+ FARS, Blitzortung RED, GRLevel3, WD, WL, VWS, Cumulus, Meteobridge
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Offline Jumpin Joe

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #31 on: September 30, 2013, 01:27:36 PM »
Just to let you know... this is exactly how mine is working and it is functioning properly....  after rechecking my joints, touching them up and re-seating the IC's on the amp board.

Don, I have not experienced any issues with my display, no suggestions.

I hope you both get them up and running soon.

Joe
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Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #32 on: September 30, 2013, 01:32:41 PM »
Cutting the pin off rather than snipping the socket might be a better way of doing it so you don't run the risk of cutting too much off the connector. I almost did that myself but it didn't damage the socket - thankfully.

As far as ensuring that you don't install board off one pin, you could always stick a piece of toothpick in the hole so you couldn't get the board in the socket. You still run the risk of bending a pin if you try to force it in though.


If you score with a sharp knife between the pins, all around, the whole section will snap right off without an issue. Or if you've got real sharp, small dikes, just cut between them. Now, I did have a bit of trouble with these tired ol' eyes finding the #1 pin locations when I inserted the display...  :lol:
Mike

I like the idea of scoring between the pins so the break is cleaner. Have added that suggestion to the step-by-step document.

I do have a pair of very small dikes that are very sharp. The socket just snapped right off exactly where I wanted it to. Perhaps I was lucky or was it just raw skill?  :roll:


I, too, used the sharp flush cutters to snip off the end pin (through the middle of the pin) very slowly, then trimmed the remaining socket using the cutters too.  The magnifiers helped :)


My RED controller with 4.4 firmware works the way Don described:

On power up, the green LED beside the GPS module begins blinking, and after a fix is obtained, shuts off.  The green LED on the STM board flashes with the other LED while the fix is being obtained, then burns steady once the fix is found.

The blue LED on the STM board flashes at the 1PPS rate when the fix is obtained.

The big red LED at the top of the STM board flashes slowly, and the small red LED at the top of the STM board is on continuously.

Best regards,
Ken

YAHOO!!!!!!! It's running  \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ am I excited, or what ????!!!!

However, I must admit something.  :oops: :oops: :oops: I decided to go back over everything and see if I could find anything that just didn't seem right. Looking at the LCD Display I decided to pull it out and start there. Well, guess what - STUPID ME had plugged it in backwards. I must have gotten the pin numbers backwards. So, I just reoriented the display and plugged it back in. When I applied power this time, it lit up beautifully and all looks good!!! Yippee!!!

I have now registered my station and it was assigned #808 and is already showing up on the status list on Blitzortung.org.

Now, Ken & Joe seem to have confirmed what I am seeing. I get EXACTLY the same indications they are. So, the GPS is working and the normal LED conditions ARE that the green LED on the Controller board does flash until the GPS gets a lock and then shuts-off and stays that way. I assume if the GPS signal is lost, it will begin flashing again until it once again gets a lock.

So, now I'm going to finish up my V2 Loop antenna and get it connected and see what happens.

Too all, thanks so much for the inputs and help along the way. I know I still have a lot to learn.



« Last Edit: September 30, 2013, 01:57:35 PM by W3DRM »
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #33 on: September 30, 2013, 01:46:57 PM »
 UU
Mike
 


Offline Jumpin Joe

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #34 on: September 30, 2013, 01:54:41 PM »
 =D> =D> =D>

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #35 on: September 30, 2013, 02:06:26 PM »
Congratulations Don!

And thanks for the build checklist and documentation project .. I know it will be a big help in construction.  It was for me :)

Best regards,
Ken
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Offline Ian.

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #36 on: September 30, 2013, 02:20:49 PM »
Great news, so pleased for you, nothing worse than when things don't well.

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Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #37 on: September 30, 2013, 02:31:59 PM »
Thanks Guys! We're in this together...

Quick question - when I connected my amp board (with no antenna connected) it came up and the green LED lit up for several minutes. Now I notice the green LED has gone out and a couple of the Yellow LEDs are on. I think this means I am in manual mode. How do I take it out of manual mode so the green LED comes on and stays on?

EDIT: I powered-down my complete system RED and then after about 30-seconds plugged the power supply back in. It took about 58 seconds for the GPS to get a lock and then I noticed the green LED on the Amplifier board had come back on again. It is still on about 15 minutes after the restart. So, not sure what happened. I still don't have the antenna ready to connect but should have it on later this afternoon.

« Last Edit: September 30, 2013, 03:04:24 PM by W3DRM »
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #38 on: September 30, 2013, 03:23:11 PM »
To enable the remote setting for the Amp, use the web interface to your controller.  In the Settings screen, under the Amplifier section, untick the "Enable Potentiometer:" checkbox, and "Apply", then save the settings.  The yellow LEDs should go out, and the green one should go on showing you have engaged remote control.  Then that setting screen can be used to set the gain and antenna type.

Best regards,
Ken
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Offline miraculon

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #39 on: September 30, 2013, 04:00:44 PM »
That is great. Congrats on getting it up and working.

They must have changed the GPS firmware. I received my kit back in early August.

Quote
Now, Ken & Joe seem to have confirmed what I am seeing. I get EXACTLY the same indications they are. So, the GPS is working and the normal LED conditions ARE that the green LED on the Controller board does flash until the GPS gets a lock and then shuts-off and stays that way. I assume if the GPS signal is lost, it will begin flashing again until it once again gets a lock.

There was some concern raised about the ability of the GPS port to drive the LED current, maybe this was the fix.

Greg H.



Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
CoCoRaHS: MI-PI-1
CWOP: CW4114 and KE8DAF-13
WU: KMIROGER7
Amateur Radio Callsign: KE8DAF

Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #40 on: September 30, 2013, 04:23:18 PM »
That is great. Congrats on getting it up and working.

They must have changed the GPS firmware. I received my kit back in early August.

Quote
Now, Ken & Joe seem to have confirmed what I am seeing. I get EXACTLY the same indications they are. So, the GPS is working and the normal LED conditions ARE that the green LED on the Controller board does flash until the GPS gets a lock and then shuts-off and stays that way. I assume if the GPS signal is lost, it will begin flashing again until it once again gets a lock.

There was some concern raised about the ability of the GPS port to drive the LED current, maybe this was the fix.

Greg H.

I found a thread on the Blitzortung.org forum that mentioned the green led is programmed to go "off" when a GPS lock is attained. I suspect this is probably to reduce power consumption. As it is, the discovery also has a tiny LED that goes on solid once the lock happens.

Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
Davis Wireless VP2, WD 10.37s150,
StartWatch, VirtualVP, VPLive, Win10 Pro
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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #41 on: September 30, 2013, 04:24:52 PM »
That is great. Congrats on getting it up and working.

They must have changed the GPS firmware. I received my kit back in early August.

Quote
Now, Ken & Joe seem to have confirmed what I am seeing. I get EXACTLY the same indications they are. So, the GPS is working and the normal LED conditions ARE that the green LED on the Controller board does flash until the GPS gets a lock and then shuts-off and stays that way. I assume if the GPS signal is lost, it will begin flashing again until it once again gets a lock.

There was some concern raised about the ability of the GPS port to drive the LED current, maybe this was the fix.

Greg H.

I found a thread on the Blitzortung.org forum that mentioned the green led is programmed to go "off" when a GPS lock is attained. I suspect this is probably to reduce power consumption. As it is, the discovery also has a tiny LED that goes on solid once the lock happens.


Mine doesn't go off!
 


Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #42 on: September 30, 2013, 04:29:22 PM »
To enable the remote setting for the Amp, use the web interface to your controller.  In the Settings screen, under the Amplifier section, untick the "Enable Potentiometer:" checkbox, and "Apply", then save the settings.  The yellow LEDs should go out, and the green one should go on showing you have engaged remote control.  Then that setting screen can be used to set the gain and antenna type.

Best regards,
Ken

Got it! I had the Mode setting in the Main section set to "Automatic". Once I changed it to "Manual" and the Applied the change, the Amplifier 1 section allowed me to make manual gain and threshold adjustments and to enable or disable the potentiometer.

Little by little, I'm learning this system...
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #43 on: September 30, 2013, 04:32:00 PM »
That is great. Congrats on getting it up and working.

They must have changed the GPS firmware. I received my kit back in early August.

Quote
Now, Ken & Joe seem to have confirmed what I am seeing. I get EXACTLY the same indications they are. So, the GPS is working and the normal LED conditions ARE that the green LED on the Controller board does flash until the GPS gets a lock and then shuts-off and stays that way. I assume if the GPS signal is lost, it will begin flashing again until it once again gets a lock.

There was some concern raised about the ability of the GPS port to drive the LED current, maybe this was the fix.

Greg H.

I found a thread on the Blitzortung.org forum that mentioned the green led is programmed to go "off" when a GPS lock is attained. I suspect this is probably to reduce power consumption. As it is, the discovery also has a tiny LED that goes on solid once the lock happens.


Mine doesn't go off!

Are you running the latest firmware? I'm at 4.4 which is the latest. I suspect that may make a change unless it was an actual controller board change.
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #44 on: September 30, 2013, 04:38:33 PM »
Yep, 4.4
 


Offline W3DRM

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #45 on: September 30, 2013, 05:45:34 PM »
Yep, 4.4

Hmmm, then there must have been a change to the board or components.
Don - W3DRM - Emmett, Idaho --- Blitzortung ID: 808 --- FlightRadar24 ID: F-KBOI7
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Offline miraculon

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #46 on: September 30, 2013, 05:46:18 PM »
Aha! Mystery solved. They have made a board change.

From the thread "Slow gps fix" on Blitzortung.org main forum:

Quote
    zalama Wrote:  When the module get the fix, green stops blinking, should it be stay glow ?

Perfect. That's a new behaviour on the newer PCBs, because the manufacturer told us to do it this way. (from Tobi)

I must have an earlier PCB that the LED stays ON after the fix.

Greg H.



Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
CoCoRaHS: MI-PI-1
CWOP: CW4114 and KE8DAF-13
WU: KMIROGER7
Amateur Radio Callsign: KE8DAF

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #47 on: September 30, 2013, 05:58:01 PM »
Aha! Mystery solved. They have made a board change.

From the thread "Slow gps fix" on Blitzortung.org main forum:

Quote
    zalama Wrote:  When the module get the fix, green stops blinking, should it be stay glow ?

Perfect. That's a new behaviour on the newer PCBs, because the manufacturer told us to do it this way. (from Tobi)

I must have an earlier PCB that the LED stays ON after the fix.

Greg H.



Don, Ken or Joe: could you get a close-up photo of the PCB in the GPS area? It would be interesting to see what the change is. Might need both top and bottom side photos.

Greg H.


Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
CoCoRaHS: MI-PI-1
CWOP: CW4114 and KE8DAF-13
WU: KMIROGER7
Amateur Radio Callsign: KE8DAF

Offline dfroula

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #48 on: September 30, 2013, 09:06:58 PM »
On older Red controller PCBs, the green LED near the GPS module goes solid when a fix is obtained.

On newer rev PCBs, the LED turns off once a fix is obtained.

According to Tobias, the change was made per the recommendation from the GPS module manufacturer. It probably has something to do with keeping the current through the module down. Mine stays solid on a fix, so I have one of the earlier controller PCBs.

From the Blitzortung board:

"zalama Wrote:  When the module get the fix, green stops blinking, should it be stay glow ?

Perfect. That's a new behaviour on the newer PCBs, because the manufacturer told us to do it this way." (from Tobias)

Regards,

Don



Cutting the pin off rather than snipping the socket might be a better way of doing it so you don't run the risk of cutting too much off the connector. I almost did that myself but it didn't damage the socket - thankfully.

As far as ensuring that you don't install board off one pin, you could always stick a piece of toothpick in the hole so you couldn't get the board in the socket. You still run the risk of bending a pin if you try to force it in though.


If you score with a sharp knife between the pins, all around, the whole section will snap right off without an issue. Or if you've got real sharp, small dikes, just cut between them. Now, I did have a bit of trouble with these tired ol' eyes finding the #1 pin locations when I inserted the display...  :lol:
Mike

I like the idea of scoring between the pins so the break is cleaner. Have added that suggestion to the step-by-step document.

I do have a pair of very small dikes that are very sharp. The socket just snapped right off exactly where I wanted it to. Perhaps I was lucky or was it just raw skill?  :roll:


I, too, used the sharp flush cutters to snip off the end pin (through the middle of the pin) very slowly, then trimmed the remaining socket using the cutters too.  The magnifiers helped :)


My RED controller with 4.4 firmware works the way Don described:

On power up, the green LED beside the GPS module begins blinking, and after a fix is obtained, shuts off.  The green LED on the STM board flashes with the other LED while the fix is being obtained, then burns steady once the fix is found.

The blue LED on the STM board flashes at the 1PPS rate when the fix is obtained.

The big red LED at the top of the STM board flashes slowly, and the small red LED at the top of the STM board is on continuously.

Best regards,
Ken

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Re: W3DRM - My Red Build Log - Minden, Nevada
« Reply #49 on: September 30, 2013, 10:15:38 PM »
Aha! Mystery solved. They have made a board change.

From the thread "Slow gps fix" on Blitzortung.org main forum:

Quote
    zalama Wrote:  When the module get the fix, green stops blinking, should it be stay glow ?

Perfect. That's a new behaviour on the newer PCBs, because the manufacturer told us to do it this way. (from Tobi)

I must have an earlier PCB that the LED stays ON after the fix.

Greg H.



Don, Ken or Joe: could you get a close-up photo of the PCB in the GPS area? It would be interesting to see what the change is. Might need both top and bottom side photos.

Greg H.


Here's a quick shot of mine. However, you can't see much with the Discovery board in the way.

The following is a full-size image I took:


Additionally, my Controller Board has "PCB 10 * Ver. 3b  8/2013" printed on it.

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