Another trick that worked for all my surface mounts was to take some liquid FLUX, not solder paste, and brush a small amount over each set of pads before soldering. It has aided in making just a small amount of solder touched to the pin flow extremely well and bond under the pin when touched with the iron and then just touched with the end of the solder 'wire'. I do put a small and I mean small, amount of solder on the pad first so there isn't a huge hump that keeps the chip from setting nicely on its legs and close to being flat. Then having positioned the chip, the slightly sticky flux keeps it from moving too much and then hold pressure on the top of the chip, touch the soldering iron to the top of the pin and when it melts the chip settles into the tiny amount of melted solder, pull the iron away, leaving gentle downward pressure and the solder sets. Then you can go to all the other pins and finally come back to the first anchoring solder joint and redo it if there isn't enough solder to make a good connection.
I apologize for preaching to the choir here, but I found that the little bit of liquid flux and it's aid in making the first pin tinning and increased ease of flow (not depending upon the rosin inside the solder core to melt first and flow, thus limiting the amount of solder on the end of the iron) along with the slight stickiness makes things so very much easier and quicker.
These comments for those reading about this and wondering how to best get those tricky parts in place and soldered down without bridges. Invariably, having an excess of solder on the tip of the iron, trying to get the rosin core to melt, will lead to the excess amount running down onto the pads and bridging, so be sure to also clean off the tip of the iron before doing this part.