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Weather Station Hardware => Davis Instruments Weather Stations => Topic started by: Dale_S on February 19, 2019, 10:03:29 PM
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
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Not sure there is a way.
You know your house. Maybe there is an in somewhere. Vent, etc.
Otherwise, a hole is the only way. Just what you have to do. Even my brand new build, I had to drill a hole so the Directv could get in. No big deal.
Just be careful with the jacks so you do not break a tab.
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
If you're worried about poking a hole through the house, why didn't you simply buy wireless? :???:
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was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
You need a drywall saw. To cut a nice square hole.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bon-Tool-6-in-Drywall-Saw-with-Comfort-Grip-Handle-15-171/306156002
You'll use this single gang wall bracket.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916?MERCH=REC-_-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100160916-_-N
But before you cut... you need to use a stud finder to make sure you are clear and aren't cutting into a two-by-four behind the drywall. Some better stud finders also detect live AC cables behind the wall.
Then you use the orange gang wall bracket to mark the wall with a pencil. Just mark in the corners where the little holes are. That is your template. Now connect the dots you drew with a ruler or your hand as you want to draw a box. That is your cutting line to do with the drywall saw.
Jab the drywall saw in the wall and cut along the line you drew. Be careful for electrical lines as some houses don't have electrical inside of conduit. Rare..but I've seen it. Better to put this outlet far from electrical outlet if possible so as to not cut electric line. The line if there would go up the wall. So just don't put this outlet above an electrical outlet and you'll be fine.
Remove the drywall cut section. Insert the orange gang wall bracket and push the two flippy things up and down respectively. Tighten flippy things with screwdriver.
To cover the wall bracket you'll need a blank wall plate.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-1-Gang-Blank-Wall-Plate-White-R52-88014-00W/100356837
Drill a hole in the middle of the wall plate the smallest size you need to pass the cable end through.
Now you are ready to run the cable once you drill through the outside wall. Use Silicone caulk to seal the outside hole after you've run the cable.
Now it won't be ugly inside the house. It will just look like a normal outlet that won't be unsightly. This is cheap and easy to do yourself, and it will look professional.
Don't forget when running the cable to pass through the wall plate. Often installers forget about the wall plate and then they have to cut a slit on the wall plate to the hole. Unless they want to pull the cable out and start over.
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Would you recommend an RJ45 female jack in the plate, and terminating the cable there? That would seem neater (and allow me to reposition the console by just using a longer cable)...
thanks!
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Terminating with an RJ45 jack would certainly be even neater. But that would require more tools. You'll need a 110 punchdown tool to terminate the jack. Then you'll need a telcom crimper or buy a ready made cable for the wall jack to the console. But I don't know the particulars of the tolerances of the cabled VP2 console and if it would present electrical problems if you use an interrupted connection using a jack and your own cabling. I think it would probably be okay but best to hear from someone with experience with the cabled VP2 console.
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
If you're worried about poking a hole through the house, why didn't you simply buy wireless? :???:
If you don't like a honda, why don't you just buy a porsche?
I've bought what I could afford (2nd hand). If you are willing to donate the extra money to me then I'll buy one.
if not then why not actually answer the question instead of making snide remarks to someone who is trying to get into this.
Two posts into this forum and I meet someone like you. I hope you are an outlier...
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3 posts into this forum you now realize you will need a thick skin and learn too drink 3 cups of filtered coffee to read it and before responding..aint all bad best practice ignore the non constructive stuff but he has a point ... dont like ugly cables then wireless may be something for the future we all started somewhere and thought it would be better if i do that in the future..thats how we get the porsche sometimes eventually..dont take it to heart you might just thank him one day... have a great day ...brian
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Terminating with an RJ45 jack would certainly be even neater. But that would require more tools. You'll need a 110 punchdown tool to terminate the jack. Then you'll need a telcom crimper or buy a ready made cable for the wall jack to the console. But I don't know the particulars of the tolerances of the cabled VP2 console and if it would present electrical problems if you use an interrupted connection using a jack and your own cabling. I think it would probably be okay but best to hear from someone with experience with the cabled VP2 console.
I have a Krone punchdown tool for ethernet - good idea! I agree it'd be good to hear from someone who's done this before (which is why I'm here :-)
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3 posts into this forum you now realize you will need a thick skin and learn too drink 3 cups of filtered coffee to read it
I'd have to learn to drink coffee first! :-)
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These are nice and neat looking for pre-made cables:Keystone Jack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVTZ2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Doug
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
I have a cabled VP2 Plus that has been running reliably for over 15 years - in two different states. No RF interference or "channel number" problems. No problem with ISS batteries, solar panels, supercaps, etc. etc.
I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector, commonly used for telephone handsets.
Also, the cabling is "straight through" (rather than "flipped over").
If you consider using a jack on the outside of your house - consider also that jacks are not weatherproof. Passing through a hole can be made reasonably weatherproof.
Another possible solution is to make a hole just the size of the cable (not big enough for the plug), cut the cable and pass it through that small hole, and then splice the cable (there are a number of good ways to do that). Or, perhaps best, terminate in a "punch down" block inside the house. Then do the inside cabling from there.
That's my personal preference.
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something like this but smaller
https://www.pducables.com/products/air-guard-5-round?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiAkrTjBRAoEiwAXpf9CT9le4UtQNnu5HcXrJhH1vqBsXBLv_6mcCRTDaM5mRG2rNT8WReDTBoC-dsQAvD_BwE
or...
In the ceiling through a roof vent then down the inside of a wall....spit balling here.
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
If you're worried about poking a hole through the house, why didn't you simply buy wireless? :???:
If you don't like a honda, why don't you just buy a porsche?
I've bought what I could afford (2nd hand). If you are willing to donate the extra money to me then I'll buy one.
if not then why not actually answer the question instead of making snide remarks to someone who is trying to get into this.
Two posts into this forum and I meet someone like you. I hope you are an outlier...
Snide remark?? Whether you think so or not, that was a legitimate question. Countless times new people come onto this forum seeking help, with the members having NO clue on what the poster's knowledge or background is, because they failed to or didn't want to share it, just like you.
It cost a whole 40 extra dollars to go from a wired to wireless setup, so obviously not knowing your situation, I threw the question out there thinking you might reconsider with knowing of the upcoming hassle and extra money for tools to complete the job, which would have made a wireless setup just as cost effective and no-brainer.
Have a nice day...
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This takes me back to may Weather Monitor II days! At least you only have to run one cable through a wall and not 3. :grin:
Its up to you but the way I ran the cables was to drill a small hole in a window sill just big enough for the cables then used expanding foam it seal and insulate. Really easy and cheap as well. Really didn't look bad at all. I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag. I really wish Davis would increase the frequency that outdoor humidity is updated to at least the same rate as temperature.
BTW here's a tidbit for all of us who have had issues with the cups on our anemometer seizing up. Even though the rest of that station has been taken down a long time ago the anemometer is still on the chimney of my parents house because its a ways up there and would be a pain to take down. Were talking over 20 years and when I visit I'm amazed to see the cups still spin freely in the wind although it does look a though the vane sticks somewhat.
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I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag.
No sir, wireless is just as efficient as wired.
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I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag.
No sir, wireless is just as efficient as wired.
Well then never mind... Thats crappy!
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I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag.
No sir, wireless is just as efficient as wired.
Well then never mind... Thats crappy!
:lol: If you truly want crappy update times, get something other than a Davis. No contest..
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I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag.
No sir, wireless is just as efficient as wired.
...other than the need for a solar panel, a battery, a supercap..... and the possibility of RF interference...
There are advantages to cabled systems, and advantages to wireless systems. And disadvantages to both, too.
It seems (to me) a bit unnecessary to advise a new participant who says "I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up" by saying: "why didn't you simply buy wireless?"
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I have to say one advantage of a cabled system is you get constant data with no lag.
No sir, wireless is just as efficient as wired.
...other than the need for a solar panel, a battery, a supercap..... and the possibility of RF interference...
It seems (to me) a bit unnecessary to advise a new participant who says "I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up" by saying: "why didn't you simply buy wireless?"
As you can well see, can't you, the statement was about UPDATE intervals, nothing else. BTW, as I've stated before, my supercap is original, my battery is original, the solar panel worked fine until removal, and I've never experienced one, single, RF problem. My ISS will be 12 years old this summer. Another case on this forum of, "I don't have it/use it, therefore it must suck" mentality.
As far as the OP, he may not have been aware of the wireless option and would possibly opt otherwise . How in the hell would I know?
Sorry if me trying to help causes people to get their panties in a wad...and you to get into your usual, arguing self.
Anything else you want to complain about??
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As far as the OP, he may not have been aware of the wireless option and would possibly opt otherwise . How in the hell would I know?
Sorry if me trying to help causes people to get their panties in a wad...and you to get into your usual, arguing self.
Anything else you want to complain about??
I apologize for causing you so much stress.
I understand that your recent statement was about update intervals.
Another case on this forum of, "I don't have it/use it, therefore it must suck" mentality.
Where did I say that I "don't have it/use it"? I support several wireless VP2s owned by others. But I was answering a question about a cabled system.
and you to get into your usual, arguing self.
Who?
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3 posts into this forum you now realize you will need a thick skin and learn too drink 3 cups of filtered coffee to read it
I'd have to learn to drink coffee first! :-)
Little weird not drinking coffee. LOL
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
If you're worried about poking a hole through the house, why didn't you simply buy wireless? :???:
If you don't like a honda, why don't you just buy a porsche?
I've bought what I could afford (2nd hand). If you are willing to donate the extra money to me then I'll buy one.
if not then why not actually answer the question instead of making snide remarks to someone who is trying to get into this.
Two posts into this forum and I meet someone like you. I hope you are an outlier...
Snide remark?? Whether you think so or not, that was a legitimate question. Countless times new people come onto this forum seeking help, with the members having NO clue on what the poster's knowledge or background is, because they failed to or didn't want to share it, just like you.
It cost a whole 40 extra dollars to go from a wired to wireless setup, so obviously not knowing your situation, I threw the question out there thinking you might reconsider with knowing of the upcoming hassle and extra money for tools to complete the job, which would have made a wireless setup just as cost effective and no-brainer.
Have a nice day...
The dude has issues. Doesn't drink coffee and can't afford a few dollars extra for wireless.
You had a perfectly fine question. His reply shows what type of person he is. Asking you to donate money to him instead of him finding a part-time job to earn some cash.
Loser written all over that dude.
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....I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector ....
You would mean a 6P4C as the 4P4C is different and about the only place that will be found is on the Davis serial logger.
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
If you're worried about poking a hole through the house, why didn't you simply buy wireless? :???:
If you don't like a honda, why don't you just buy a porsche?
I've bought what I could afford (2nd hand). If you are willing to donate the extra money to me then I'll buy one.
if not then why not actually answer the question instead of making snide remarks to someone who is trying to get into this.
Two posts into this forum and I meet someone like you. I hope you are an outlier...
Snide remark?? Whether you think so or not, that was a legitimate question. Countless times new people come onto this forum seeking help, with the members having NO clue on what the poster's knowledge or background is, because they failed to or didn't want to share it, just like you.
It cost a whole 40 extra dollars to go from a wired to wireless setup, so obviously not knowing your situation, I threw the question out there thinking you might reconsider with knowing of the upcoming hassle and extra money for tools to complete the job, which would have made a wireless setup just as cost effective and no-brainer.
Have a nice day...
The dude has issues. Doesn't drink coffee and can't afford a few dollars extra for wireless.
You had a perfectly fine question. His reply shows what type of person he is. Asking you to donate money to him instead of him finding a part-time job to earn some cash.
Loser written all over that dude.
Seriously? Don't need your help with garbage like this.
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You have got to be kidding me #-o A new member ask a question about pulling wires and it turns in to this. Hard to believe. What did a wireless station have to do with anything?
Doug
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I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up for the first time.
The console connects via an RJ11 connector, and was wondering how you make the transition from outside -> inside without having an ugly hole in the wall with a cable poking through...
I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector, commonly used for telephone handsets.
I didn't know that - thanks. Do you know if the handset connect ("RJ9") can be plugged into an RJ11 connector. I'm not sure of the dimensions and no longer have any of them in the house to try out (the landline telephone network is being phased out here).
Edit: Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modular_connector#Interchangeability) says...
"The dimensions of modular connectors are such that a narrower plug can be inserted into a wider jack that has more positions than the plug, leaving the jack's outermost contacts unconnected. The contact spacing is always 1.02 mm (center to center)."
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You have got to be kidding me #-o A new member ask a question about pulling wires and it turns in to this. Hard to believe. What did a wireless station have to do with anything?
Doug
Did you not read the thread? It's called a CHOICE. I had ZERO knowledge at first whether he even knew a wireless option existed and may have wanted to do that instead.
Unbelievable...
Amazing how people only comprehend what they WANT to comprehend.
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One piece of advice that comes to mind that I don't think has been mentioned, or I may have missed it:
When bringing the cable in from the outside, make sure it enters the house from the bottom of the hole, leave a drip loop if the cable runs down the wall. That just helps make sure rain and moisture doesn't try to follow the cable into the house.
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Well, this interchange went off the rails fairly quickly.
I urge you all to be more considerate before posting the first response that pops into your head (and may later regret). The purpose here is to answer member's questions as accurately (and as politely) as possible and avoid spinning down into umbrage and mudslinging.
When the topic/question is 'Wired setups - how do you manage cabling?', the replies to the question should be personal answers to the question from relevant experience. If your setup is wireless, you likely don't have relevant experience and should likely refrain from posting in the thread at all.
NONE of the postings should read as 'hostile' to the persons who either asked or gave personal answers to the question.
Please 'play nice' or the admins will have to reveal the 'yellow card' for bad behavior.
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If your setup is wireless, you likely don't have relevant experience and should likely refrain from posting in the thread at all.
I respectfully disagree, Ken. Knowledge is power. Just because I don't have a wired setup (just one example) certainly doesn't mean that I or someone else can't help contribute to a learning experience.
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I agree that knowledge in the area is the requisite for having a meaningful contribution.
I'd also like to stress that sharing that knowledge should always be done in a respectful and non-demeaning manner.
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....I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector ....
You would mean a 6P4C as the 4P4C is different and about the only place that will be found is on the Davis serial logger.
Given the ranting and raving in this topic, and criticisms of me, I don't know how to respond to that comment.
Perhaps someone else who owns a Cabled VP2 would look at the connector and tell us how many positions it has - or whether it's just like a telephone handset connector. As I recall, my connectors measure almost exactly 10 mm in width. Which would not be 6P.
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....I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector ....
You would mean a 6P4C as the 4P4C is different and about the only place that will be found is on the Davis serial logger.
Given the ranting and raving in this topic, and criticisms of me, I don't know how to respond to that comment.
Perhaps someone else who owns a Cabled VP2 would look at the connector and tell us how many positions it has - or whether it's just like a telephone handset connector. As I recall, my connectors measure almost exactly 10 mm in width. Which would not be 6P.
Def. 4P4C - just looked.
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Now that that's settled (thanks, Dale_S)...
Did you not read the thread? It's called a CHOICE. I had ZERO knowledge at first whether he even knew a wireless option existed and may have wanted to do that instead.
Unbelievable...
Amazing how people only comprehend what they WANT to comprehend.
In the first sentence in this topic, Dale_S says:
I've got a Vantage Pro2 (wired) system that I'm setting up .....
Perhaps a logical conclusion, from the presence of the "(wired)" notation, would be that Dale_S was aware of a "non-wired" version.
And perhaps, from the presence of the word "got", it might be inferred that an additional, alternative version purchase might not be attractive.
But I certainly wouldn't want to dispute other conclusions.
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Now that that's settled (thanks, Dale_S)...
Did you not read the thread? It's called a CHOICE. I had ZERO knowledge at first whether he even knew a wireless option existed and may have wanted to do that instead.
Unbelievable...
Amazing how people only comprehend what they WANT to comprehend.
Perhaps a logical conclusion, from the presence of the "(wired)" notation, would be that Dale_S was aware of a "non-wired" version.
You are absolutely correct. My bad.
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Happy to just let things die down here. Not wanting to sow any discord.
Sorry!
Dale
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Do you know if the handset connect ("RJ9") can be plugged into an RJ11 connector. I'm not sure of the dimensions and no longer have any of them in the house to try out (the landline telephone network is being phased out here).
[Note: I prefer the xPxC description, because there's a lot of "confusion" (fake news/perception) about RJs]
Yes, through very good engineering, the 4P4C plug will fit in, and connect properly to, a 6P socket (and to an 8P socket).
I would advise against that for outdoor applications, because the vacant space at each side of the connector would be an exposure. (Keystone jacks are available in 4P4C, if you really want to go the "jack" route)
I don't even like it a lot for indoor applications, because the connector is sometimes a little "wiggly"from side to side, which bothers me (but probably doesn't actually matter from a connection standpoint).
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....I presume you understand that this isn't really an RJ11 connector - it's a 4P4C connector ....
You would mean a 6P4C as the 4P4C is different and about the only place that will be found is on the Davis serial logger.
Given the ranting and raving in this topic, and criticisms of me, I don't know how to respond to that comment.
Perhaps someone else who owns a Cabled VP2 would look at the connector and tell us how many positions it has - or whether it's just like a telephone handset connector. As I recall, my connectors measure almost exactly 10 mm in width. Which would not be 6P.
Def. 4P4C - just looked.
Then you better look again as it is definitely a 6P4C, that being a 6 Position, 4 Conductor plug but the jacks on the Davis ISS and wired console are actually all 6P6C but things like the Wind, Rain etc require only 4 conductors so use 6P4C plugs, Temp/Humidity use 6 conductors and use a 6P6C jack. a 4P4C plug will fit into 6P6C or 6P4C jack but is rather sloppy and can fail to contact at times.
The only 4P4C used by Davis is on the serial data logger which requires an adapter cable with a 4P4C jack to 6P4C modular plug
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You are correct! I measured the jack and it was around 9mm wide which matches the wikipedia entry (9.6mm) rather than the 7mm for the rj9.
Thanks for correcting me.
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You are correct! I measured the jack and it was around 9mm wide which matches the wikipedia entry (9.6mm) rather than the 7mm for the rj9.
Thanks for correcting me.
Thanks for correcting me, too.
====== added ==========
And - not that it matters, but I was curious why my recollection was 4P4C - so I took one of my 2 consoles off the wall and looked. When I installed this system in the current location (9 years ago), I actually used 4P4C (telephone handset) plugs. As discussed above, those fit and work in the 6P jack on the console.
I apologize for providing incorrect information.
Footnote: I have no idea why 4P4C is sometimes called RJ9, sometimes RJ10, and sometimes RJ22. If someone here knows, I would be interested in the information.