WXforum.net
Weather Station Hardware => Davis Instruments Weather Stations => Topic started by: Evening thunder on March 01, 2016, 10:59:05 AM
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I have the later model of anemometer with no reed switch, bought in September 2013 shortly after it came out. However, for a while now the wind cups have been 'sticking' at times in light winds. Looking back through my records, the first sign of this was actually in summer 2014, though gradually getting more noticeable, especially this winter.
For the first year or so after purchase, the 'gust' would very rarely be 0mph. Now however, it can be zero for nearly the whole night except for occasional spike of 4-8mph. I have also noticed a visible light breeze (plants moving etc) with the vane moving but no movement of the cups. Sometimes, by shaking the pole lightly, it frees the cups and off they go briefly, or they 'stutter' and try to turn irregularly before stopping.
Oddly, the sticking issue is not continuous and I sometimes see them spinning/gliding freely at 1-2mph (as opposed to irregular stop/start movements), perhaps after a stronger gusts have 'freed' them, though this lasts a variable period until they stop and stick.
A few days ago this finally prompted me to get the pole down, take the wind cups off and clean the shaft/cups and other exposed surfaces.
However, this does not seem to have solved the problem.
With the wind cups off I took this picture.. and it appears what I think may be the bearings? have some 'rust' or corrosion on them:
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I was wondering if this is likely to be the cause, or could it be something else such as dirt/dust getting further into the 'body' behind what is visible with just the cups off?
The shaft turned freely, with no noticeable stiffness or grittiness, though made a noise if I 'span' it at high speeds.
This anemometer is a replacement for another which did this same thing after 1 year 4 months! Indeed I made a very similar post to this one. I thought maybe it was a one off and bought the new version hoping it would last several years.. so it will be a bit annoying if this is the bearings or it is not easily fixable..
Despite my need for accuracy, if it is the bearings I could probably live with it compared to paying the UK price for a new anemometer.. unless it is likely to affect higher wind speeds too?
Though it would be nice to have a properly functioning part so I'm happy to hear any suggestions from people who get to the end of this longer than intended post (bearing in mind (pun unintended!) I don't really have any DIY experience with these things).
Many thanks
Sam
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I had similar problems with my old Dallas Semiconductor "Weather Station". (similar to AAG and Texas Weather).
I found a source of replacement bearings and replaced them. I also replaced the vane bearings. It worked like new with the replacement bearings.
From your photo, it looks like the bearings might be similar.
This resource (http://www.lexingtonwx.com/anemometer/) may be helpful. It does include a source for bearings for the Davis wind set. A quick search on Google for the R2ZZ bearing resulted in a number of potential sources.
Greg H.
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Thanks for that info about possible replacement, I had seen that page though not read it in depth.
Not sure how good I'd be at something like replacing the bearings, but if it comes to it I my try.
I did some more searching and came across a French forum (http://forums.infoclimat.fr/topic/87269-anemometre-vp2-effet-hall-roulements-hs/) where people are having this problem, I had to translate the page but it seems some are saying the quality of the anemometers/bearings has deteriorated, which matches my experience and doesn't give me much confidence.
It's all well and good saying the 'improved' anemometer has a lower starting threshold, but it needs to last more than a year or two..
I do like Davis equipment overall (e.g. the good performance of the radiation shield, update frequency etc) as long as it is accurate, but am becoming a bit frustrated with certain aspects like apparently inconsistent reliability. I've also recently had problems with more than one tipping bucket (though I'd need another thread to go into that).
Then again, I'm not sure how easy it is to make an anemometer that lasts several years without becoming 'stiff'...
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That's interesting (or it is to me) It certainly looks like water ingress from where the two parts of the anemometer come apart.
(http://forum.infoclimat.fr/uploads/monthly_12_2015/post-12855-0-84260000-1451298950.jpg)
replacing the bearing shouldn't be too arduous, but then again why should you? perhaps a thin silicon sealant seal should be applied before assembling these.
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Interesting, there's certainly been enough water available to ingress over the last couple of years..
Rather different from California (where I presume Davis do much of their 'field' testing)
It doesn't seem to be sticking quite so much the last few days, though it did get a good blow (up to 45mph) the other day.
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Well, I spoke too soon.
We had a strong blow the other day, had a gust of 59mph, the highest I've recorded. However the next morning I noticed it was sticking worse than ever, and it is again this morning.
I have an old 2007 anemometer from my old/backup ISS installed again for comparison. I just saw it show 8mph, while the new one shows 0mph. At 10mph it only said 3mph. The average speed is showing 1mph compared to 5mph from the 2007 anemometer.
I made a video illustrating the problem. This is from the other day but it seems even worse this morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5MTKGOjSPE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5MTKGOjSPE)
Looks like I'm gunna have to do something about this.
Maybe it's a bit of grit/rust working through the bearings that will remove itself or that I could remove somehow, probably very wishful thinking though.
Of course that may give the question, why don't I just use the old anemometer? Well, why should I in the long term having bought 2 newer ones that have not lasted long. I don't know how long the reed switch etc on the 2007 model will last. Also when the new one is working like new, it can show 2-3mph when the old one shows 0mph, though that is probably reasonable given its age. I did think the vane was stiff, but seems to move more freely now, and more freely than the new anemometer..)
I've found quite a few reviews mentioning similar problems, including someone who has also had 2 seize up within a few years, like me.
If I go to a website selling them, I see "Sealed stainless steel ball bearings for long life"... Hmmm.
Edit: inserted the wrong video :oops: lol
Average is now 1mph vs 6mph from the old anny, been this bad for a couple hours now.
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Well I have the same problem. Noticed about a week ago the wind seemed "calm" a whole lot more of the time. When I was out
replacing the motor/fan in the FARs I noted the wind blowing and the cups not rotating. A gust will make them rotate. Tonight I went out noticed same thing...gave the telepole a good shake---twirling cups---for a few seconds---wind still blowing, then no twirling.
Just so happens the TWC guy was up in the bucket working on the utility pole---I hope I dont get reported for code violation..lol
I need to get a flag back on the pole too to be loop-holedly quasi-legal.
Anyway paid Amazon 4.99 shipping so a replacement will be here Thursday. Went ahead and ordered some of the batteries too just in case. Hope it is not anything else....
Will be off Friday so I guess will de-telescope the tele-pole and perform maintenance.
It appears the fan/motor lasted 2 and a half years. The anemometer 2 and 3/4.
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I just replaced an anemometer from 2007 with a new one back before new years. The reason I replaced it is because it started to quit reading, then sometimes come back, then finally quit reading for good. My 2nd station which is from 2011 at another location has also had its 2nd anemometer put on last summer for the same reason. But I've never had problems with the cups actually sticking.
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1146 PM last night was the last time I even registered a gust. No readings ever since. I won't be able to fix until at least Friday. :evil:
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Update: I took it down, can tell something is wrong as can hear it grinding/whirring with occasional gritty 'crunches'. The vane shaft is a bit stiff with a hint of grittiness too.
But, I'll be darned if I can get the cups off. Seems the set screw has stripped as multiple allen keys of the correct size just slip. The manual did say to make sure it is it 'very tight' so I did..
Unless I can get it out another way (tried super-glueing the end of the allen key to the screw lol) I'll either be using the 2007 anemometer (like I am now temporarily) or a new one, though as UK prices are about double what you can get it for in the US, just buying another isn't so justifiable.
Well I have the same problem. Noticed about a week ago the wind seemed "calm" a whole lot more of the time. When I was out
replacing the motor/fan in the FARs I noted the wind blowing and the cups not rotating. A gust will make them rotate. Tonight I went out noticed same thing...gave the telepole a good shake---twirling cups---for a few seconds---wind still blowing, then no twirling.
Just so happens the TWC guy was up in the bucket working on the utility pole---I hope I dont get reported for code violation..lol
I need to get a flag back on the pole too to be loop-holedly quasi-legal.
Anyway paid Amazon 4.99 shipping so a replacement will be here Thursday. Went ahead and ordered some of the batteries too just in case. Hope it is not anything else....
Will be off Friday so I guess will de-telescope the tele-pole and perform maintenance.
It appears the fan/motor lasted 2 and a half years. The anemometer 2 and 3/4.
Interesting to hear you have the same symptoms. Similar life to mine, though it started losing the 'improved' sensitivity of the hall effect version much earlier.
A bit of a tangent but my first FARS motor worked for 3 years until I somehow broke something during maintenance a year or so ago. I have heard the more recent ones fail frequently but have been lucky with the replacement so far.
My set up makes the sound of a tele-pole quite tempting..
I just replaced an anemometer from 2007 with a new one back before new years. The reason I replaced it is because it started to quit reading, then sometimes come back, then finally quit reading for good. My 2nd station which is from 2011 at another location has also had its 2nd anemometer put on last summer for the same reason. But I've never had problems with the cups actually sticking.
My 2007 anemometer is still working mostly ok, though after 4.5 years service it was retired as I bought a new ISS for other reasons (so it became a spare). The March 2012 and Sep 2013 ones seem to have got bad bearings in a much shorter time frame though.
So, think I'll use the 2007 one for now even if it is a little less sensitive than a new one. I thought the vane had stiffened up but doesn't seem too bad, maybe taking it off a while back freed it.
Never had a reed switch issue (fingers crossed), though by using the 2007 one again I have the potential worry of such issues, no doubt it would be when I'm away this spring or summer.
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My set up makes the sound of a tele-pole quite tempting..
You would love the tele-pole.
Great weather themed flower photos on your site btw !
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1146 PM last night was the last time I even registered a gust. No readings ever since. I won't be able to fix until at least Friday. :evil:
It's interesting how quick mine has deteriorated recently, especially since the 9th which had a wind run of 510 miles. It has be it's been getting stuck more and at higher speeds. I had an average wind speed of 7mph on the 2007 anny show as 1mph, and saw a gust of 10mph be recorded as just 1mph. Then.. after several hours with these symptoms it decided to work like new.. until the next day when it decided not to work again lol.
My set up makes the sound of a tele-pole quite tempting..
You would love the tele-pole.
Great weather themed flower photos on your site btw !
I think you're right. I have to get up a ladder, unscrew various nuts/bolts to lower the pole, and sometimes unscrew more bolts joining that pole to a second pole, to just about reach the anemometer from the garage roof! (which is thankfully easily accessible)
and thanks! I've been meaning to update/re-design some parts of my site, such as adding more recent pictures. One of those things I never seem to get round to doing.
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Back in business. Yesterday late afternoon I installed a new anemometer and immediately had results. I did not look at the old one that closely. I did notice the inside of the "cable port" box was MUCH more funky and rusting. The box on the gauge/temp/humid pole looks clean inside. The one on the pole obviously works but is not faring well I think.
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It's interesting how quick mine has deteriorated recently, especially since the 9th which had a wind run of 510 miles.
I'm having a similar problem with my anemometer on a VP2 where it seems to be recording low wind values since March. I'm curious, how were you able to research historical wind run values? I use Virtual Weather Station, Weatherlink, and Cumulus and I could not find a way to view wind runs from any other time, other than today.
I haven't taken my anemometer down yet to see if there is a physical issue with it but I will hopefully get to that soon.
Thanks,
Scott
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It's interesting how quick mine has deteriorated recently, especially since the 9th which had a wind run of 510 miles.
I'm having a similar problem with my anemometer on a VP2 where it seems to be recording low wind values since March. I'm curious, how were you able to research historical wind run values? I use Virtual Weather Station, Weatherlink, and Cumulus and I could not find a way to view wind runs from any other time, other than today.
I haven't taken my anemometer down yet to see if there is a physical issue with it but I will hopefully get to that soon.
Thanks,
Scott
I mainly just noticed the frequency and amount of sticking with increasing wind speed, though quoted a wind run to illustrate how windy that day was. I also use Weatherlink and Cumulus, and in Weatherlink one of the graph options is wind run (below the 'outside temp' option for me) where you can view different dates/time spans.
I hope you can resolve your issue, for me I could hear something was wrong if I spun the cups and listened, due to the slight grinding/whirring sound I mentioned in reply #9.
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I now realized that I should have pulled the bearings out to take a better look at them while the anemometer was down, but now it is mounted up high again. I was going to order a couple new bearings but I don't know if the bearing flange diameter of the replacement bearings has to be the same as the one on the Davis anemometer. In other words, does the flange fit into the black plastic housing of the anemometer body or does it simply butt up against the edge to prevent it from being inserted too far?
From this thread (http://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=28664.msg278247#msg278247), it appears that the bearing flange is 0.064" larger than the bearing OD (which is 0.375").
If I can't find bearings with the correct flange size, will flangeless bearings work fine?
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I don't know anything else than what's mentioned there myself as I couldn't even get the cups off due to a stripped set screw, in the end I just ordered a new one as it got too annoying, and due to being unsure about this sort of thing even if I could get them off.
We'll see how this third anemometer since 2012 performs over the next few of years.
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I've been having a different, but possibly related problem with my VP2 anemometer. My wind speed seems fine, but the direction seems to be getting stuck. It likes to rest a lot on due north for instance.
I haven't had a chance to tear it down yet, but when I do a gentle "wiggle" test there doesn't seem to be any obvious obstruction. I'm thinking there might be some FOD in there that occasionally gets in a bad spot.
I'll report back when I get it on the workbench.
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I don't know anything else than what's mentioned there myself as I couldn't even get the cups off due to a stripped set screw, in the end I just ordered a new one as it got too annoying, and due to being unsure about this sort of thing even if I could get them off.
We'll see how this third anemometer since 2012 performs over the next few of years.
Good luck with the 3rd one!
I found some bearings with a flange that I think are the same size and went ahead and ordered them. They'll be here next week and I'll replace them soon after. I plan to seal up the anemometer body with some dielectric grease to prevent water from getting in a ruining my new bearings.
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Any word on how anybody's repairs went? I have the new anemometer purchased in 2013 and it's now failing as described by others. I would like to purchase better bearings but the anemometer is still up on top of the second story roof. I was hoping somebody would post back here with more specifics about the fit. Will any 1/8th shaft, 3/8ths diameter, 5/32nds thick bearing work? Is the vane bearing the same?
I don't know if my bearings are rusty yet, but if they are it can't be due to high rains as we've been in the midst of the worst drought on record here in Southern California for as long as I've had this weather station.
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Although I ordered some bearing through Boca Bearing, I haven't put them in yet because the anemometer seems to be working well ever since I sprayed out the bearings with compressed air followed up with some silicone spray. If I do replace the bearings, I'll post some pictures and let you know how well the bearings fit.
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I've now had the same exact problem develop as well, unfortunately. My anemometer was installed on 11/14/13, so the lifespan of mine turned out to be very similar to what others have reported in this thread. I didn't notice it until last week, when I saw some false calms in my data. It has very quickly gotten much worse since then; the amount of wind required to move the cups continues to increase.
My VP2 is in a very exposed coastal environment that experiences high winds and horizontal rain with some regularity -- not to mention the high salt content of the air. I thought maybe the environment was a contributing factor in my case, but that may not be true based on the locations of others who have had the same problem. I've also had two VP2s in sheltered inland locales that never had this issue, though those are both pre-2013 (pre-Hall Effect sensor) anemometers.
My anemometer mast is in a very inaccessible location and will require a professional to take it down (and put it back up again) so I can mount the replacement anemometer I just bought to the mast. I'm hoping there's an antenna installer, satellite dish installer, roofer, or some other sort of expert who can do this. Has anyone ever hired a professional to mount an anemometer in a high place?
It's really a shame that this has become a widespread problem. I plan on contacting Davis support -- this is an issue I'd hope they would address.
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I just went through and episode of the anemometer cups "sticking". The actions was that the cups would start spinning and a little while later they would abruptly stop. I tinkered with it some and ended up removing the wind cups and the vane and spraying some JIF electrical contact cleaner onto the shafts. Re-installed the cups and vane and so far things have been good. I really don't know if the contact cleaner helped or not, but something did. I'm able to get to my anemometer ok, though, so I'm able to tinker with it. I would call one of your local DISH or DirectTV installers and see if they work on antennaes, too. Then tell them it's not "exactly* and antenna, that' sit's actually smaller. I have to believe someone would be willing to help you with it....for a price, of course.
Best wishes on your repair/replacement.
Ed
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Ditto here regarding Intheswamp's fix. I finally took mine down and took it apart and sprayed Silicone spray (lubricant) into the bearing and shaft and then turned them (they were "crunchy" at first). They freed up and have been spinning fine under low wind ever since. I actually bought a spare set of sealed stainless steel bearings from Boca Bearing but haven't had to install them yet since everything has been running fine since the silicone spray fix 4+ months ago.
Also, make sure you have that super small #0.5 metric allen wrench to loosen the set screw! (I think that is what it required)
Your mileage may vary.
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...and take note of the orientation of the vane and it's shaft to each other. You'll probably need to re-orient the vane anyhow so it's no biggie if you get it off....the easiest way to re-orient the vain is through the console...thanks to CW2274 for suggesting that to me!! \:D/
But, the OP's problem still goes back to physically accessing the anemometer.
Ed
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I just went through and episode of the anemometer cups "sticking". The actions was that the cups would start spinning and a little while later they would abruptly stop. I tinkered with it some and ended up removing the wind cups and the vane and spraying some JIF electrical contact cleaner onto the shafts. Re-installed the cups and vane and so far things have been good. I really don't know if the contact cleaner helped or not, but something did. I'm able to get to my anemometer ok, though, so I'm able to tinker with it. I would call one of your local DISH or DirectTV installers and see if they work on antennaes, too. Then tell them it's not "exactly* and antenna, that' sit's actually smaller. I have to believe someone would be willing to help you with it....for a price, of course.
Best wishes on your repair/replacement.
Ed
That's excellent advice -- thank you! I figure I'll try that first. If I don't have any luck there, my fallback options would be to look for a roofer or a handyman. I'm a bit worried about what the price will end up being, but I'll find a way to make it work.
Yesterday, I did try hitting the cups with 1) spray from a hose nozzle and 2) a telescoping cleaning pole, both from safe locations well below the anemometer. Like others in this thread, I managed to move the cups -- and then they seized up again. Interestingly enough, the cups were seizing up yesterday in winds > 10 mph and are not seizing up today in winds that were briefly < 3-4 mph. I don't think it has anything to do with my feeble DIY efforts, but it would be nice to have good wind data at least intermittently until I can replace the unit.
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I would definitely take a shot at lubing it with some non-oily lubricant. The contact cleaner I knew wouldn't leave an oily residue but figured it would maybe flush something out and knock some oxidation off. I have no idea if it helped or not. I expected to see some spiderwebs or maybe some dead ladybugs or some other critter between the hubs of the cup and vane pieces and the wind sensor housing...but did not see anything. Others, though, have found spiders to have set up housekeeping among the vane or cup hardware and after cleaning the web out their anemometer worked fine.
Best wishes on your repair, maybe it'll just be a bug or spiderweb. Think positive!!! :-)
Ed
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I would definitely take a shot at lubing it with some non-oily lubricant. The contact cleaner I knew wouldn't leave an oily residue but figured it would maybe flush something out and knock some oxidation off. I have no idea if it helped or not. I expected to see some spiderwebs or maybe some dead ladybugs or some other critter between the hubs of the cup and vane pieces and the wind sensor housing...but did not see anything. Others, though, have found spiders to have set up housekeeping among the vane or cup hardware and after cleaning the web out their anemometer worked fine.
Best wishes on your repair, maybe it'll just be a bug or spiderweb. Think positive!!! :-)
Ed
Definitely all things I'll try once I hire someone to take it down. I'll have to replace it (the new anemometer is on its way now), just because I think the risk of trying to repair it and failing is too high -- whereas a new anemometer is much more likely to work without issue right away. But I'll keep the old (current) anemometer after taking it down/cleaning it and will see if I can repurpose it.
Speaking of my current anemometer, it has been working very well since Monday night. There was a period Wednesday night/yesterday morning during which it was "stuck" at calm for hours on end, but that was during an unusually long period of very light/legitimately calm winds. I'm going to keep monitoring it and will update this thread with my results, as even if I do replace it sooner than later, it still won't be done until at least a couple of weeks from now. If I find that it never sticks in winds averaging > 10 mph and only does so rarely in winds 5-10 mph, I may consider delaying replacement indefinitely. My average wind speed at the anemometer site during the Fall and Winter months has generally been 11-12 mph since I've had the station and gales start occurring with some frequency here at this time of year, so as long as the "sticking" problem is only really a problem under 5 mph and maybe occasionally at 5-10 mph -- and so long as it doesn't get much worse than it has -- I may keep the current unit in place.
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That sounds like a plan to me. Mine still seems to be working fine. You don't have to be in a rush, go at your own pace.
Best wishes,
Ed
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Had the same thing happen!Two year old VP2 started anemometer cups started sticking as of yesterday any thing under 6 mph they would not turn at all,this morning I took it down and took the cups off and sprayed the crap out of it with silicone spray then turn the spindle until it turned smoothly.Put it back up at 27' and it works like new!!
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I recently began experiencing this issue and tried cleaning the bearing with a few sprays from a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner I had in the garage. It worked great for several days but then started sticking again. I called Davis to have a new one sent out under their repair program, but instead they told me that they now sell replacement bearings. The price is a bit steep ($20 plus $10 shipping), but it's cheaper than a replacement anemometer. The Davis part number is 7345.999.
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Two + weeks still every thing is find no sticking at all!! It has been two months now still no sticking after spraying the bearings with WD-40 silicon spray this has been a very easy fix!!
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I just noticed my VP2 cups are sticking as well today. I looked up briefly and saw the wind vane moving to the wind direction but the cups were not spinning yet my old metal windmill in the back yard was spinning away. Then the cups would start spinning but come to hard stops between gusts. Did a search and found this thread. While I have no fear of going up on the roof to check on it, I first have to take down the 2 TV antennas and a pre amp and all the wiring before I can take down the 10' pole the anemometer sits on top of. It's a bit of a process. I have noticed for some time now that my wind speed readings on CWOP are always a lot lower than the analysis values so I wonder if it's been sticky for a while.
Too windy to go up there today but at least all the snow is melted off after some recent warm weather and rain. I'll try to get to it before I go back to work Jan 3rd.
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Be careful up there, sounds like a bit of work ahead.
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Thanks for the concerns "Intheswamp".
Well the operation was a success. Turns out I didn’t have to take down the antennas. My 17’ adjustable multi position aluminum ladder placed on my roof allowed me to reach the anemometer. But just barely. It was a bit of a stretch, and probably a little dangerous. Never underestimate the need to be extremely careful on projects like this.
Once I was safely on the ground and in the garage, I removed the cups from the shaft and found it would turn but kinda rough. It definitely did not spin very free. The first thing I did was run a copious amount of contact cleaner through the bearings. It freed it up a bit but it still sounded crunchy. I then took the thing apart and removed the shaft with the little square magnet thingy on it. It was then I found rust on the shaft where it contacted the lower bearing. Use a little naval jelly to dissolve the rust and it came real clean. Does not look like the shaft was damaged. Seems like the rust may have come from the bearing and transferred to the shaft. I used WD40 to help clean the rust out of the lower bearing. Did that several times while spinning the bearing until the solvent ran clear on a rag. Then dried it all with some compressed air.
Before assembling it, I added a drop of TriFlo lube with Teflon to each bearing, wiping off any excess. I know it’s not dry lube but I swear by it with all the places I use it one my bikes and is my favorite lube for tight spaces like these tiny bearings. The thing now spins free and easy with no noticeable “crunchiness”. It was spinning just fine now at the light 1, 2 to 3 mile per hour winds this afternoon. I’ll have to keep an I on it to see how long this repair lasts. I’m sure the rust will return eventually like it always does once it gets started.
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Congratulations on the safe repair. =D> Perhaps you might consider making it part of an annual or semi-annual maintenance activity for your station.
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Congratulations on the safe repair. =D> Perhaps you might consider making it part of an annual or semi-annual maintenance activity for your station.
Thanks. Yes I thought of that. Like on a calm warm fall weekend before winter starts. And now that I know what to look for it should be a quick repair.
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... I’ll have to keep an I on it to see how long this repair lasts. I’m sure the rust will return eventually like it always does once it gets started.
It may last longer than you think! I did basically the same thing as you did (clean and lube) and mine has been spinning freely since June of 2016. Happy New Year and good luck on yours!
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Congratulations on a safe and successful repair!!! Hopefully it will be a long-lived one!!!
And eveybody...be careful up on those ladders!!! Our hobby is fun but not worth bodily injury or worse.
Be careful.
Be safe.
Oh...and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!! ;)
Ed
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My VP2 anemometer just started sticking in January after being in service for 9 months. Installed it in march 2016 (brand new VP2). Called Davis, the parts are about $60 shipped to Canada so I ordered what I needed, just the bearing/shaft assembly that bolts onto the bottom og the wind direction/anemometer arm. Appreciate the picture at the beginning of this thread regarding the Phillips head screw required to do the R+R.
Since my anemometer is at the top of a tower (wooded area, needs to be above tree height) knowing what screwdriver to bring along is exceedingly helpful. One question though; is there a nut on the top of the assembly that the screw tightens into, or does it just deadhead into the metallic mast? I am hoping I can just remove the wind cups, remove and install the new assembly, and re-install the wind-cup rotor without bringing the whole thing down to the ground, and while being careful in case there is a nut on top I could lose...!
I am really disappointed in this bearing/shaft design, in that: A) it failed so soon, and B) wasn't covered under warranty. The sales person at Davis I talked to reassured me that the replacement was an "update" to the original and it should last much longer... (I certainly hope so). My original VP weather station that is now partially retired and has the original wind speed/direction sensor on it, still works after 12-13 years of service, hence why I went with another Davis.
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If I was in your shoes, I'd take some spray lubricant like silicone spray and some compressed air in a can and use the air to free any particulate matter and then shoot some lube in there before I tried disassembling the whole thing in the air, on a ladder, trying not to drop parts. I took mine down, blew air through it and lubed it and it has been fine for almost a year now (and I still have a new set of bearings that I mistakenly ordered in case they ever stick up so much that they need to be replaced). Either that, or bring the whole thing down to do the full repair because I don't think you'll be able to replace the bearings while on the ladder. Just my $0.02. J
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No ladder required. Just a 60' climb to the top of the tower. Actually quite stable up there with the proper safety equipment. That being said, I'm only climbing it once if possible to replace the bearing. If that doesn't go well then the whole anemometer assembly and cable comes down for the repair. Since I have the part here already it will be switched out and the old one can be a spare if it can be repaired. Temps are around 0C during the day which is fine, but I need the wind to be below 20kph before I go up. Wind has been in the 30's last few days and looks like 50's for the next few days so not sure when I can do the repairs.
Need some of that south Texas weather up here! :)
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No ladder required. Just a 60' climb to the top of the tower. Actually quite stable up there with the proper safety equipment. That being said, I'm only climbing it once if possible to replace the bearing. If that doesn't go well then the whole anemometer assembly and cable comes down for the repair. Since I have the part here already it will be switched out and the old one can be a spare if it can be repaired. Temps are around 0C during the day which is fine, but I need the wind to be below 20kph before I go up. Wind has been in the 30's last few days and looks like 50's for the next few days so not sure when I can do the repairs.
Need some of that south Texas weather up here! :)
Sounds like a plan. Let us know how things work out!
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Got home in time this evening before the sun set, about 0C and 20kph wind maybe a bit less... managed to climb up and work on the anemometer. Putting the new part in I lost the screw that holds it to the mast and weathervane, and didn't bring the right sized screw with me up the tower :(
It's lost somewhere in 4' or so snow at the bottom of the tower so no hope of finding it. Think I have a couple screws that might fit so I'll have to go up again to finish the job. It's too dark now and forcast is for 40kph winds again tomorrow so again I wait...
I checked the old part just now and can't find any evidence of corrosion. The lower bearing seems to be ceased, looks like the shaft was turning inside the inner race. The top bearing is fine, nice and smooth. Must have been a defective bearing. Not much wear on the shaft since it was so stiff in the bearing race it just didn't turn much. I might be able to press out the original bearings and find replacments for them...
Just wondering if anyone would know the exact spacs for the screw that holds the anemometer together?
-G.
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Just have a look at p2 of the ISS manuak - all the parts are itemised there.
I think you probably mean the #4 x 1-1/8" machine screw but can't be sure.
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PP2 of the ISS manual shows the parts required for assembly, and the #4 machine screw is for mounting the anemometer mast to the base as seen at the top of PP3. If you look at the bottom of PP3 you see the anemometer (head) as it comes from the factory (original VP/VP2 design). The screw I need fastens the anemometer head to the mast, not really shown in this diagram, but would likely be seen if the picture was of the updated anemometer head. I suspect it is a 1/2" to 3/4" self tapping sheet metal type screw.
In my junQue drawer I found several screws that I am sure one will work... will have to take them up on the tower this am (not as windy out as previously forcast) and use one of them to re-attach the anemometer.
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Replaced the bearing housing this am. Climbed down and checked... now no wind speed indication. Just sits at 0 with 20kmh wind and the wind cups are spinning quietly away. Wiring was all good, made sure the screw didn't damage the wiring or anything like that. Maybe the mercury switch was damaged somehow during the R+R operation? Waiting for a response from Davis. Thinking I'm going to have to order the whole anemometer assembly now...
:(
edit:
Climbed up again and found the bearing/shaft assembly had not "clicked" all the way into the wind direction housing, and the magnet was a bit too far from the mercury switch to register. Loostened the screw a bit and gave it a good squeeze that snapped it in the rest of the way and now it's working! :)
Beautiful day here +6C light winds, nice for tower work! :)
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Ok, I'm re-visiting my old anemometer problems...basically trying to figure out if I still have a problem or not.
I visited my CWOP page this morning and in checking the anemometer readings they are showing what seems to me a pretty good difference from the "analyzed" data. A good 45+degrees discrepancy in the wind direction (can fix easily, if I need to). But what concerns me is the wind speed...my wind speed reading shows to be only about 1/3rd of that of the "analyzed" data. I'm wondering if this is in fact, what is happening. My anemometer was sticking several months back, but I took it down and sprayed it with electronic contact cleaner and it went to working/spinning good. I'm now wondering if it really is spinning as freely as I think it is. I know that the CWOP "quality" data can be questionable at times but I'm wondering, considering the prior problem with the anemometer sticking if this wind speed difference is pointing a problem out for me. Thoughts???? Thanks, Ed
(http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/cgi-bin/wxqchartwind.pl?site=E2927)
(http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/cgi-bin/wxqchartwind.pl?site=E2927&start=-7&days=7)
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Ditto here but it is hard to read the last 7 days graph in my instance. I know that my anemometer, while on the top of my roof, is still shielded by some trees around the property so that may account for the difference.
(http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/cgi-bin/wxqchartwind.pl?site=C0133) (http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/cgi-bin/wxqchartwind.pl?site=C0133&start=-7&days=7)
You can see the height of the surrounding tree from my weather cams which are mounted about 5 feet below the anemometer, here:
(http://weather.robuck.net/wx_cams.JPG)
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Cool, those charts are "live"...they've updated.
I'm not sure what to do regarding the speed. I think I'll monitor the wind for a few days and see how it corresponds with the CWOP chart...it looks like the 1-day chart has narrowed the difference, but still around 30-degrees separation.
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Cool, those charts are "live"...they've updated.
Holy cow, you're right! I just copy and pasted the image URL and didn't think about the fact that the image name and path doesn't change and is updated in semi-realtime. Oh well, I guess that blows my supportive argument.
Let me know what you determine regarding your wind speeds.
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I'm having the same problem. Original anemometer purchased together with ISS in April 2009 worked fine until high winds (55mph) broke the cups in December 2013.
Bought the new reedless anemometer from my UK supplier and it was fine until last September when the cups were reluctant to move in a light breeze. But the next day they were fine and have remained so until today. They do spin but it requires a fair amount of wind to get them to move. The wind vane does more though so I'm concerned that a repair or replacement is needed.
But this kit is very expensive now in the UK and given Davis's reputation for quality I'm a bit annoyed that something like this has only lasted just over 3 years before it starts playing up again.
I'll speak to my UK supplier tomorrow and see if any other UK owners have had similar problems with the new Mk 2 anemometer.
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The replacement part is not expensive, however the shipping can be.
Mine is not the reedless model. It has a magnet on the opposite end of the anemometer cups, pressed onto the shaft. I am unaware of a reedless model, maybe someone can post a link? What sort of sensor would it have? Maybe hall effect?
-G.
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The replacement part is not expensive, however the shipping can be.
Mine is not the reedless model. It has a magnet on the opposite end of the anemometer cups, pressed onto the shaft. I am unaware of a reedless model, maybe someone can post a link? What sort of sensor would it have? Maybe hall effect?
-G.
I'm hopeful my UK supplier may have some of these in stock especially as he's already chipped in with the discussion. I'll know more tomorrow.
The reedless model has a brass tip on the wind vane. Easily distinguishable. :grin:
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Ray,
Mine has the brass tip. It's a year and a half old. Maybe it does have another type of sensor but it has the magnet that rotates so the pickup must be an induction coil of some sort to pick up the rotation if it's not a reed switch. I have noticed that when the wind cups turn very slowly (<5kph) sometimes it doesn't read, or shows zero wind. The old VP weather station will read unless the wind cups actually stop; and the old kit uses a reed switch, I recently replaced the switch and wind cups on that unit and it still works great after 10+ years. (Kids knocked over the unit when playing soccer in the back field, breaking the wind cups, anemometer mast bracket, and glass reed switch). This might be an indication that it is something other than a reed switch?
Someone on this forum should know for sure the type of sensor in the new anemometer assembly, would be interested in details.
Here's a picture of bearing with the shaft/magnet in the foreground.
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Hi gsfarm,
Thanks for that info. Yours is newer than mine which I can now confirm is in its death throes. Strange really as it came back to life just before midnight last night and all looked well until 10:30 this morning when despite a light breeze the cups failed to rotate except in stronger gusts.
I have spoken to my UK retailer (ProData) and they have asked me to return it to them so they can check it thoroughly and give a report back to Davis. There has to be something fundamentally wrong with its design for it to fail so soon. It didn't even last as long as my Mk 1 anemometer with a reed switch. :-(
Fortunately I have a spare as part of a Davis spares pack people in the US could buy and a mate who has a relation over there bought two of them. I was wondering how long I would have to wait before it would be needed. It is also the Mk 2 with brass tip.
I'm afraid I'm not technically minded at all so can't really offer an opinion about the design. It would be interesting to run a survey here on how long VP2 owners have had a problem-free anemometer. Certainly where I live in NW England well away from the coast and with a high wind gust of 56mph in 8 years it's not especially hostile to weather stations.
I also think Davis have acknowledged there is a problem with the anemometer by making the replacement cartridge available for around $30. Make that £40 in the UK!
I'm shipping this busted anemometer back to ProData on Wednesday. I'll post their findings here when I have them.
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It would be interesting to run a survey here on how long VP2 owners have had a problem-free anemometer..
My first one lasted about 6 years until presumably a large flying creature struck it and smashed the daylights out of it. The replacement, an upgraded one, has been problem free for 4 years, along with the transmitter.
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My original VP2 anemometer had several failures in the first five years or so of operation. The problems ranged from reed-switch failures to broken cable wiring due to flexing of the solid wire cable. All of the reed-switch problems were rectified by Davis sending me a new anemometer assembly. The last failure was several years ago. Davis then sent me a new-style anemometer that uses the hall-effect sensor rather than the reed-switch. So far, I've had zero anemometer issues since installing the new version.
If anyone has an older anemometer with the reed-switch that fails, I would suggest they not try to repair it but to simply replace it with the new model with the new hall-effect sensor.
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Thank you CW2274 and W3DRM. My mate took down the malfunctioning anemometer today and we put the replacement up. On examining the area the cups attach to there is an awful lot of dirt there and some rust. This photo shows the state of it. Bear in mind this is the new reedless anemometer purchased in December 2013 for £180 or around $300.
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For a supposedly improved design something is very wrong. How can that much muck get inside and find its way to the bearings. It has sprung back into life on two occasions in the last 72 hours suggesting if it's cleaned and somehow sealed I should have many more years service from it.
I only hope the replacement put up today has a better sealing system than the one it replaced.
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My anemometer is now back with ProData in England. They have examined it and will be replacing the wind cartridge free of charge once they have some from Davis. Nice of them and much appreciated. =D>
Interesting that Davis have now made a replacement cartridge available. Might it mean they have concerns about the design which as you can clearly see allows muck into the assembly causing it to eventually stick. Or just permanently tweaking the design to make it better. :-) Hopefully this won't happen again and not for many years if it does.
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What do you mean when you say "the cartridge"? Are you referring to the bearing?
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What do you mean when you say "the cartridge"? Are you referring to the bearing?
It's a module that replaces the existing bearing and perhaps something else. My supplier doesn't have any yet so they were short on the detail.
I still get no emails when a reply is posted. Why? I have the option selected and nothing comes through.
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I still get no emails when a reply is posted. Why? I have the option selected and nothing comes through.
The most likely reason is that there is a 'spam trap' somewhere in the server sequence the board's mail server and your client which is discarding these messages. Most ISPs seem to default created mailboxes to use their built-in spam filters. These are very frequently less than optimal (particularly) at telling real spam from wanted auto-notifications and almost always default to discarding (what they believe to be) spam. I recently wasted a huge amount of my and a website ISP support technician's time investigating an auto-notification non-delivery problem that ultimately turned out to have resulted from my cable provider switching their 'spam protection' back on for a mailbox on which I had switched it off for years!
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Thanks pfletch. I solved it. I just unsubscribed and then subscribed and that seems to have done the trick. Maybe the option times out if you don't post frequently enough. The posts weren't going to my ISP's spam box. That's the first place I check.
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Well, my anemometer has been sticking some more so I ordered one of the wind speed cartridges last week. Ryan (www.scaledinstruments.com) said it'd fix the sticking problem. The cartridge only works on the new (bell-shaped) anemometers. While I was at it I ordered one of the new style rain buckets...hourglass-shaped and comes with bird spikes. They should be here probably Tuesday or Wednesday...I might switch out the bucket but we're predicted to get up to 4" (or more) rain from now through Wednesday so most likely the wind speed cartridge will have to wait to be installed.
Ed
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Ya'll can all just call me "Speedy". :-P I just now have installed the wind speed cartridge (shaft and bearings assembly)...the prospect of Hurricane Irma arriving in two days encouraged me to "get'er done!". The new cartridge appears to be working well. Though folks south of me are getting plenty of wind it is rather becalmed around here right now so I haven't seen it clock any high speeds yet. Tomorrow, and especially Monday, Hurricane Irma should give it a good test.
As long as you have the allen wrench that came with the station or a set with some *small* ones in it and a medium size phillips screwdriver you have all the tools you need to work on it. Naturally you will need other than the tools to lower the mast with. Simple repair....even "Speedy" did it. :-)
Observations: I found that when I spin the stem of the old cartridge, with nothing attached to it and holding it in my hand, that the shaft/magnet(?) assembly will spin freely but suddenly "hit" something hard causing it to stop spinning. Sometimes when it "hits" it will bounce back spinning a turn or two in the opposite direction. It always "hits" when I spin it in the proper direction. Oddly, when I spin it in the "wrong" direction, opposite of the design of the cups, it spins freely and doesn't "hit". Also, if I hold on to the shaft and turn it while keeping my fingers on it (not simply free-spinning it) I can feel a rough scrubbing and it will lock up at times in either direction.
I think something is inside that has "come lose", be it a ball bearing, a chip of metal, or ????, and it spins until that something jams the shaft or one of the bearings. My old cartridge is not rusty or corroded and other than a small amount of spider web there wasn't any dirt or debris in it...it actually looks good. It just suddenly stops when it when it "hits" that something. :-|
The new one seems to be working good, so hopefully it will be good to go for several more years. The first cartridge lasted just a tad over four years.
I just thought I'd share what I did/found.
Best wishes to all, and to everybody in the path of Irma be safe.
Ed
ETA: Link to the part needed... https://www.scaledinstruments.com/product/davis-6410-anemometer-for-vantage-pro2-vantage-pro/
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I thought I'd follow-up in saying the anemometer is working great!!! I also noticed that the link I put at the end of the message above is the wrong link...it linked to a complete anemometer. Here is the correct one for the wind speed cartridge and it's on sale right now.
https://www.scaledinstruments.com/product/davis-7345-999-pro2-anemometer-wind-speed-cartridge/
I noticed with the old cartridge the magnet was exposed with no cover to it. The new cartridge has a cover/cap over the magnet...more of a sealed unit that *should* give longer service. The addition of the cover seemed like a good improvement.
Back in 2013, not long after I installed my VP2 I noticed the 4x4 post had started to warp. This caused the anemometer to not be level. I don't think it had anything to do with the wind cartridge failing, but it bugged me. So, while I was replacing the wind cartridge I decided to level up the anemometer. It's kind of a semi-permanent fix, but it's level again and I don't think the 4x4 is going to warp anymore.
So, if you're having problems with your anemometer sticking on your VP2 then go ahead and replace the cartridge...it'll be like new!!!
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I noticed with the old cartridge the magnet was exposed with no cover to it. The new cartridge has a cover/cap over the magnet...more of a sealed unit that *should* give longer service. The addition of the cover seemed like a good improvement.
By any chance, did you take a picture of the cover/cap over the magnet on the new cartridge? I'm curious to see what improvement has been made.
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FYI: There is also a "commercial grade" anemometer cartridge for $2 more.. seems it may have a higher quality bearing? The description says, "Commercial grade protection to resist corrosion and seizure." .. https://www.scaledinstruments.com/product/davis-7345-953-pro2-anemometer-commercial-grade-wind-speed-cartridge/
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Just to be clear, there is only one VP2 wind cartridge part on the official Davis spares list, which is 7345.953. My take on what's happened is as follows:
Although the new anemometer design (with the replaceable wind cartridge) has been around for 3-4 years or so, for some reason the wind cartridge did not appear on the Davis spares list until this year (2017), but was available unofficially on request from Davis. It seems like the official release of the wind cartridge and its designation as the .953 part has coincided with a slight change in design of cartridge very possibly, as Intheswamp suggests upthread, associated with the fact that there's now a cover or seal over the cartridge to prevent ingress of dust (and also, I'd speculate, to discourage slow loss of bearing lubricant from the cups side of the bearing).
So, in future, I'd expect that the .953 part will be the only spare available.
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piconut, sorry, but I did not take a picture of the covered magnet area. Envision, if you will, a small water bottle cap made of the same hard black plastic as the anemometer itself...smooth finish that fits nicely around the magnet and inserts into the anemometer frame very nicely, too.
gvmelbrty, I'm not sure about the "commercial" version. The one that I ordered back in May of this year was the .999, Pro2 version.
But, sealed or not, I don't think that being un-sealed had anything to do with the old cartridge failing. It will spin and suddenly lock-up when spinning in the designed direction...it will freely spin "backwards" without locking up. The cartridge was very clean, no spiderwebs, no dirt/dust/debris...nothing visible to suggest any outside factor causing the failure...I think it was simply a design flaw and something failed internally. Having the magnet end sealed can't hurt anything, though, at least I don't think it can. ;)
But "commercial" or "Pro2".....it would be interesting to know the difference.
Ed
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Here is a picture showing the cap and the underside
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Having the magnet end sealed can't hurt anything, though, at least I don't think it can. ;)
Unless there is debris stuck to the magnete before it is sealed. Mine had an extra E-clip stuck to the magnet, which would fly around inside the capped area until the cups get stuck. I had to remove the cap to fix it. It doesn't seem designed to have the cap removed easily.
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Here is a picture showing the cap and the underside
Okay, ...so there is also a protective cover on the bottom bearing as well. Now I like that. That looks like it will be alot better at keeping the water out.
I recently replaced the bearings in mine (finally) because the original ones were starting to rust. The bearings cost me almost as much as a new wind cartridge, although I opted for a hopefully better quality bearing than what Davis Instruments uses.
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I think the cover is a good idea. But, in the case of my original cartridge (no cover) I don't think a cover would have helped. It had to be a defect in the cartridge...it was almost spotlessly clean (a small spider web) and whatever is wrong is a severe problem. The new one (covered) fits great and works great.
Ed
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Hello everyone. I'm new here, first time posting, so be gentle.
I've had my VP2 up and running since purchased new in May 2014. That makes it 3.5 years old.
From the looks of this thread, my dilemma is not uncommon--sticky anemometer cups. Anything less than 10 mph and the cups abruptly stop. After reading this thread, I felt emboldened to investigate a deteriorating anemometer bearing assembly. Up on the roof I went, lowered the mast and had a look at my "patient".
Sure enough, crunching sounds, a little grinding resistance. So...I pull out my itty-bitty hex wrench of appropriate size to loosen the screw. It fits snugly in the tiny hexagonal hole but won't turn! More pressure on the wrench and...it's now stripped. :sad: I have yet to try some lubrication in the screw hole, but that's about all I can do...
My questions:
-Am I going to have to replace the entire anemometer/wind vane assuming I can't get the damn stripped little screw to loosen?
-If so, does the cable that leads from the anemometer/wind vane disconnect from the unit, or to I have to rerun the 50' of cable that travels all over my roof and gutter back to the main weather station assembly?
Anybody wish to chime in? I'll happily pay for your two cents. 8-)
Thanks in advance.
D.
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Sure enough, crunching sounds, a little grinding resistance. So...I pull out my itty-bitty hex wrench of appropriate size to loosen the screw. It fits snugly in the tiny hexagonal hole but won't turn! More pressure on the wrench and...it's now stripped. :sad: I have yet to try some lubrication in the screw hole, but that's about all I can do...
My questions:
-Am I going to have to replace the entire anemometer/wind vane assuming I can't get the damn stripped little screw to loosen?
-If so, does the cable that leads from the anemometer/wind vane disconnect from the unit, or to I have to rerun the 50' of cable that travels all over my roof and gutter back to the main weather station assembly?
Did the screw actually strip? Or did the hex wrench (or the hexagonal hole in the screw) strip?
The easiest solution would be to purchase a new anemometer, and use the existing cable - which will involve splicing the wire near the anemometer. Otherwise, you're likely to have difficulty working, on the roof, to resolve the problem with the screw.
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I'm guessing that you have the more recent 6410 anemometer design with a screw that holds the lower bearing assembly in place. If so, then you should be able to replace just the wind speed cartridge (and by the sound of it get some new cups at the same time). It will cost some, but substantially less than a new anemometer.
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I'm guessing that you have the more recent 6410 anemometer design with a screw that holds the lower bearing assembly in place. If so, then you should be able to replace just the wind speed cartridge (and by the sound of it get some new cups at the same time). It will cost some, but substantially less than a new anemometer.
If he can get the screw out, and then replace it with a new screw that he purchases (perhaps needing to enlarge and re-thread the hole, or...) - while on the roof - or after taking the assembly off of the roof, including un-installing the anemometer cable, so it can be worked on more conveniently (and then re-installing it).
That partly depends on the damage to the screw, of course. And it's quite practical, and less monetary cost, as you indicated. And perhaps more fun.
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If he can get the screw out, and then replace it with a new screw that he purchases (perhaps needing to enlarge and re-thread the hole, or...) - while on the roof - or after taking the assembly off of the roof, including un-installing the anemometer cable, so it can be worked on more conveniently (and then re-installing it).
Isn't he talking about the grub screw in the cups that's potentially stripped? If so then replacing the wind cartridge pre-fitted with new cups could probably be done in situ, subject to access of course. Just one large screw to remove and replace - in theory a 1-minute job (though not necessarily at the top of a ladder I know!)
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Isn't he talking about the grub screw in the cups that's potentially stripped? If so then replacing the wind cartridge pre-fitted with new cups could probably be done in situ, subject to access of course. Just one large screw to remove and replace - in theory a 1-minute job (though not necessarily at the top of a ladder I know!)
Oh, maybe that's it. I had not considered that possibility. Of course, replacing the cartridge and the cup assembly would be less expensive, if that's possible.
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Of course, replacing the cartridge and the cup assembly would be less expensive, if that's possible.
Well provided it's the more recent 6410 design with the demountable speed cartridge then it's trivial to do. But of course it does depend on the anemometer version.
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I agree about replacing the cartridge/cup assembly working if it's the latter anemometer design. But, I wouldn't give up quiet yet...
Something else that might be tried is to spray a dot of Deep Creep (Seafoam product) into the hole where the grub screw is located and let it sit for several hours (a day would even be better). Then, in one of those little micro screwdriver sets there is a screwdriver that can be tapped into the hex-hole of the grub screw. (I have never tried one of those little screwdrivers for this but there are usually so many of them that one of them has *got* to fit! \:D/ ). Simply push the screwdriver against the grub screw and then tap it a few times to get it to go in a bit then firmly screw the grub out. Having given the Deep Creep several hours to do it's magic, then with the jarring it receives as the screwdriver is tapped snuggly into it I've got to believe that the screw will come on out of there. Deep Creep is not cheap, but it is very, very good at freeing up rusted and corrroded fasteners...I've seen it do some miraculous things.
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Another method for loosening the screw that has worked for me in a similar situation is to first find a small flathead screwdriver (or even a slightly oversized allen wrench) that fits squarely and firmly into the wallowed out allen wrench screw hole so that it doesn't turn at all. Then put the tip of the screwdriver into an ice cube for about 5 minutes. Then place the screwdriver back into the screw and let it sit for another minute or so to get the screw cold. Then try turning it. You will be surprised how a little "cold contraction" of the metal allen screw will work for being able to free up a stuck tiny allen screw that is wallowed out! If you have a grocery store that carries dry ice, then this trick works even better!
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That's all potentially useful information. However, SoCentralRain asked the question (lacking a few details) over a day ago, and hasn't been back to communicate.
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Well, he might not be a real talkative type. ;) He'll probably be back before long.
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Well, he might not be a real talkative type. ;) He'll probably be back before long.
Hi guys,
Actually, I'm quite the talkative type! (Just ask my family! :lol:) I was away with family stuff (hospital visits are no fun) so I wasn't able to get back here to check on my inquiry. I appreciate the responses!
Anyway, GREAT suggestions. And yes, I'm dealing with the damn grub screw (I had no idea that's the name of this itty bitty screw--I must have not noticed when I installed it). I'm keen to tackle it as soon as I can (it's evening here, and tomorrow's forecast calls for some rain, so...).
I'm going to try shooting a tiny drop of WD40 in there and letting that sit for a little while. Next, I'm going to use a micro screwdriver to attempt what one of you suggested--getting it into the stripped hex nut as tightly as I can. The suggestion of using a screwdriver that might be "cooled" with an ice cube or dry ice is interesting, but I don't know if there would be much effect given the ambient temperatures of 40 deg. F around here lately. Also the trouble might be for me to get any leverage on the screwdriver while it's attached to the extension pole. At least the roof I'm working on allows me to stand with decent stability.
I'm saddened to hear that the complete anemometer/wind vane assembly is not easy to disconnect from the cable without splicing it--that's not the greatest design in my opinion. Assuming I'm able to get the screw loose, I also hope to be able to remove the speed cartridge.
Again, thanks for the responses. I'm pretty confident I'll be able to remove the anemometer cups as soon as I can get up on the roof to try. I'll keep you all advised.
D.
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I have replaced my 2013 anemometer today as the reed switch has failed.
I'll try and refurbish the old one by changing the reed and bearings, how do you get into the unit, does the body split?, how is it fixed together?
Update - Google was my friend http://www.cjoint.com/15ma/ECAj5A762FD_changement_ils.pdf (http://www.cjoint.com/15ma/ECAj5A762FD_changement_ils.pdf)
Update 2 - Removed the wind direction pot and reed switch assembly, how does the bearings come out??, any tips please.
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I have replaced my 2013 anemometer today as the reed switch has failed.
I'll try and refurbish the old one by changing the reed and bearings, how do you get into the unit, does the body split?, how is it fixed together?
Update - Google was my friend http://www.cjoint.com/15ma/ECAj5A762FD_changement_ils.pdf (http://www.cjoint.com/15ma/ECAj5A762FD_changement_ils.pdf)
Update 2 - Removed the wind direction pot and reed switch assembly, how does the bearings come out??, any tips please.
Maybe try this topic: http://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=28664.0
It may depend on how old your anemometer is, the older ones didn't seem to have an easy, nondestructive way to remove the bearings, as far as I could see. Apparently they changed that in the VP2/brass tip era.
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Thanks SnowHiker,
I managed to get the bearing and brass follower out of the anemometer body, I wasn't sure if the bearing was flanged like some of the pictures others have posted and if it was, which way would it come out.
Looking at it again under a strong light, I couldn't see any lip and it turned out on my version it was simply an interferance fit, using a screwdriver and gently tapping allowed the bearing to dislodge into the body housing, to remove the brass follower I turned the body over and tapped this out.
I'll post up pictures of re-assembly when the new reed and bearing arrives.
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Ya'll can all just call me "Speedy". :-P I just now have installed the wind speed cartridge (shaft and bearings assembly)...the prospect of Hurricane Irma arriving in two days encouraged me to "get'er done!". The new cartridge appears to be working well. Though folks south of me are getting plenty of wind it is rather becalmed around here right now so I haven't seen it clock any high speeds yet. Tomorrow, and especially Monday, Hurricane Irma should give it a good test.
As long as you have the allen wrench that came with the station or a set with some *small* ones in it and a medium size phillips screwdriver you have all the tools you need to work on it. Naturally you will need other than the tools to lower the mast with. Simple repair....even "Speedy" did it. :-)
Observations: I found that when I spin the stem of the old cartridge, with nothing attached to it and holding it in my hand, that the shaft/magnet(?) assembly will spin freely but suddenly "hit" something hard causing it to stop spinning. Sometimes when it "hits" it will bounce back spinning a turn or two in the opposite direction. It always "hits" when I spin it in the proper direction. Oddly, when I spin it in the "wrong" direction, opposite of the design of the cups, it spins freely and doesn't "hit". Also, if I hold on to the shaft and turn it while keeping my fingers on it (not simply free-spinning it) I can feel a rough scrubbing and it will lock up at times in either direction.
I think something is inside that has "come lose", be it a ball bearing, a chip of metal, or ????, and it spins until that something jams the shaft or one of the bearings. My old cartridge is not rusty or corroded and other than a small amount of spider web there wasn't any dirt or debris in it...it actually looks good. It just suddenly stops when it when it "hits" that something. :-|
The new one seems to be working good, so hopefully it will be good to go for several more years. The first cartridge lasted just a tad over four years.
I just thought I'd share what I did/found.
Best wishes to all, and to everybody in the path of Irma be safe.
Ed
ETA: Link to the part needed... https://www.scaledinstruments.com/product/davis-6410-anemometer-for-vantage-pro2-vantage-pro/
Ed this is what seemed to have happened to mine. You can hear a slight grinding sound when it locks up. A strong enough gust will get the cups turning but eventually it binds up.
Kind of a bummer in that the whole thing was refurbished in July 16. Kind of thought I wouldn't have to do anything for a while. Also it's 32 ft up there on the antenna mast. I hate going up there.
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Did they list the cartridge as a part that was replaced? I would bet that they didn't replace the anemometer cartridge. Just because it's know to fail, why fix it when it ain't tore up, eh? :roll: Maybe by us simply ordering a part in and not complaining to Davis they don't include the cartridge in their list of parts to replace in a refurb...BUT, they redesigned that part so they must know something problematical was going on with it.
When you take it apart and see the little silver snap-ring washer then it's one of the original cartridges...if it's all encased in plastic it's the new model.
Sorry to hear you've got the problem. I supposed you will be contacting Davis about the failed refurb??? Hearing how they respond will be interesting, too. :?
Be *very* careful going up the antenna mast. I've learned that I don't bounce like I used to and that my knees don't handle ladders as well as they used to, either.
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If I was in your shoes, I'd take some spray lubricant like silicone spray and some compressed air in a can and use the air to free any particulate matter and then shoot some lube in there before I tried disassembling the whole thing in the air, on a ladder, trying not to drop parts. I took mine down, blew air through it and lubed it and it has been fine for almost a year now (and I still have a new set of bearings that I mistakenly ordered in case they ever stick up so much that they need to be replaced). Either that, or bring the whole thing down to do the full repair because I don't think you'll be able to replace the bearings while on the ladder. Just my $0.02.
In terms of removing the wind cups and applying silicone spray, it looks like you need to remove the cup assembly and then spray the silicone up into the bearings which are inside the head assembly, is that correct? Is this where you need the tiny Allen key? Mine is in a relatively inaccessible position and only having to climb up there once with all the right gear ready would be good.
Edited to answer my own question: There's a detailed install video showing you how it's done (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhH-crDLFhs). Looks like the easiest way to do it is undo the single Philips screw holding the cartridge and cups in place, then take them down and finish the rest on the ground.
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Followup after replacing it: It was a really simple fix, as others have pointed out what you want isn't the (expensive) complete anemometer but just the (relatively cheap) 7345.953 wind speed bearing cartridge. You can remove this, with the vanes still attached, in no time at all using a standard slotted screwdriver, then take it down/inside/wherever to do the rest. The original, from a 2014 Davis, was pretty gummed up with gunk:
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The annoying thing is that while it appeared to be reading low, the extra leverage given by the vanes meant it turned easily when you tried to spin them, hiding the nature of the problem. It was only when I took the cartridge down and removed the vanes so that you had to turn it by rolling the axle across your fingers that you could feel that it was like it was grinding through sand. This is a coastal location so it had probably built up salt and other gunk, not helped by the design which isn't sealed at the top so all sorts of contaminants can get in from there:
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So if you're having problems with your wind speed readings, and in particular if you have an older Davis with the unsealed design, consider swapping out the wind speed bearing cartridge, it's a very simple fix.
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A further update for people thinking of continuing with the original cartridge, I've cleaned it up a bit and flushed it through with CRC 5-56 (I keep a jerry can of it in the workshop so it was the readily available thing to use) to get all the gunk out which mostly restored normal operation, after flushing out quite a bit of black liquid it now spins freely but is still running rougher than the new cartridge. Using a heavier oil than the CRC, which I was using mostly to flush out any gunk, will probably help but even then I think it'll just be delaying the inevitable, particularly since the unsealed top will allow new contaminants to get in. So I'd say use oil as a stopgap until the replacement cartridge arrives, but don't rely on it unless you plan to clean and re-lubricate regularly.
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Hello everyone here
Last nite I noticed my wind direction on my VP2 has been "stuck" showing North 10 degrees..36 hours ago in the same position in this point
I went out this morning and yes,the vane is stuck...dont move at all even with winds of 35kms per hour( anemometer cups working fine)
Checking the cabling between the ISS..and I cleaned the modular connector...looks everything ok so odviously the problem is the vane
I dont have access for a while to the roof so I dont know what to do... :roll:
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I have access to the ISS on the roof.From the ISS to the vane..another 5 metres so I went to the roof with a 5 metres of pieces of wood and just "shake" :lol: #-o the vane...and yes...stuck!! now its ok... [tup] so I went to the console and..nothing changes :(...the vane is not stuck now but the console ..already reset
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Some Update..
A while after "shake"the vane I went to check the console and in that moment(outside winds from NNE all day)...from North 10 degrees to 21degrees 358,325 etc but thats all....since,frozen... North 10 degrees only :sad: :roll:
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After few days nothing changes...North 10 degrees..just little changes from 10 to 6,7 degrees...but back to 10..
Today winds from NW...the vane is ok...time to buy new anemometer after 3 years. #-o