Author Topic: Power Supplies  (Read 879 times)

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Offline Cutty Sark Sailor

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Power Supplies
« on: July 31, 2014, 05:19:13 AM »
Ah, one of those mornings... awake early, old age catching up, ,...
Let's do some thinking about our 'local' noise... and we've numerous  posts and issues about noise, etc.

Assume we've figured out that having the antennas and amp for H field, specifically, within a mile of a computer... (ok, 25') causes noise. Assume we've hijacked our neighbor's robot lawnmower, and hit it's buried cables with a 100KT nuclear EMF-- replaced all our light dimmers with solid switches... used a rifle on all the nearby vapor discharge street lights--- installed a new HVAC system and applied all EMF mods... Used a similar 100KT nuclear device to destroy all nearby 'Pet Fences'---  hired thieves to steal all nearby plasma TVs.... determined that our Solar Power Green System ain't good for Red (or Green) --- and determined that what we thought was ground - ain't... and we have no VLF/ELF NATO submarine communications nearby, etc... and we still have a junky receiver....

Because none of this has eliminated one of the main offenders:

It's a PITA to go chasing 'received' interference when some or most of our 'noise' is related to that bump on the power outlet.  Or simply a faulty, or missing, good earth ground on the controller only

Let's start simple:  Read this http://www.powerstream.com/Wall-mount-FAQ.htm

Now what????     Have at it, folks.
 


Offline Dr Obbins

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Re: Power Supplies
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2014, 06:35:36 AM »
Must have lucked out with a LEPOWER power supply. It has 2 USB so if I ever get a Efield, it can handle it also.

Offline miraculon

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Re: Power Supplies
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2014, 07:02:29 AM »
Must have lucked out with a LEPOWER power supply. It has 2 USB so if I ever get a Efield, it can handle it also.

If you get the E-Field antenna/amp, you do not power it separately anyways. The amplifier gets its power over the CAT5 cable that connects the controller to the amplifier. The preamp gets its power from the amplifier via the coax. The one thing that you don't want to do is have multiple power sources and huge ground loops.

Greg H.


Blitzortung Stations #706 and #1682
CoCoRaHS: MI-PI-1
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Offline JonathanW

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Re: Power Supplies
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2014, 08:46:31 AM »
The biggest problem with switching supplies is that many of them tend to use switching frequencies that are in our band of interest (10-100 kHz).  They don't HAVE to, but that's a sweet spot for cost and size.  Unfortunately, many of the less expensive switching supplies don't provide sufficient filtering to fully eliminate ripple for a very sensitive receiving system such as the Blitzortung.

That's not to say that the filtering can't be added, or better filtered systems aren't available. 

If it's helpful, here's what I did:

I decided to go with a simple linear regulated design.

The master supply (located away from the system) uses a transformer, regulator, and gel-cell battery backup to provide 13.8 volts.  It uses an Altronix LPS3 board:

http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=LPS3

Admittedly, this is a bit overkill, as the system is capable of providing 1.5 Amps.  Measurements with my Kill-a-watt meter have consistently pegged the Blitzortung system, with both E- and H-field amps, at about 0.5 Amps current draw (2.5 Watts at 5 volts).

Another option is the AL624:

http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=AL624

...which is available for around $10.  I went with the LPS3 because this supply will also power some other weather instruments, which I'm working on.  As is, the battery (12V, 9 Ah) should provide power for the BO for more than 10 hours, and of course it's expandable by adding more batteries in parallel.

Power is routed from this supply to the BO system in the attic using low-loss coax (LMR-240 equivalent).

Anyway, at the BO system itself, the power is stepped down via two LM1085 regulators.  The first is adjustable and set at about 9.25 volts out; the second is a fixed 5 volt regulator.

Linear regulators typically provide about 60-80 dB ripple reduction each at 120 Hz, with somewhat less in the BO band of interest.  Though the LM1085 isn't the quietest regulator out there, my overall noise floor is extremely low.  And because the voltage regulation is accomplished via two regulators, there's not a lot of difficulty with heat dissipation -- perhaps 15 degrees C rise each above ambient.

Here are bench pictures of the enclosure; the regulator is in the right-hand compartment:



I certainly think there are commercial supplies that are more than adequate, but if you're in a building mood, a linear regulated supply is easy to construct (schematic attached).
« Last Edit: July 31, 2014, 12:58:55 PM by n0ym »

 

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