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1
 download WuiWlink_1.dll (Davis E-mailed it to me)


1.            Navigate to the C:/Weatherlink folder.
2.            Look for a folder called ‘Expansion_Modules’.
3.            Copy that .dll filel into that ‘Expansion_Modules’ folder.
4.            Then open that folder to verify that the .dll file is in there.
5.            Close out of this window.
6.            Open Weatherlink.
7.            Click file, then click ‘manage modules.
8.            On the new box that opens, click ‘add module’.
9.            On the window that opens, make sure it opens the C:/Weatherlink/Expansion_Modules folder.  If it doesn’t navigate to that folder.
10.          Click to select the .dll file I sent you.   Click ‘open’
11.          You’ll now see that file listed in the previous ‘expansion module management’ box.
12.          Click to highlight that file, then click ‘enable module’.   You’ll then be prompted to close out of and restart Weatherlink.   Do that.
13.          Then open Weatherlink.
14.          Click ‘file’.  There should now be an option that says ‘Wunderground Settings’.   Click that.
15.          On the next box, type in the station ID and password that Weather Underground gave you.
16.          Select the update interval.
17.          Then do a test to make sure your data is getting up to Weather Underground.
18.          Click OK.

then go here for instructions
http://kevin-key.blogspot.ca/2017/05/amazon-alexa-skill-beta-test-connect.html
Modify message
2
For Sale/Wanted / Re: Stardot NetCam Live camera for sale
« Last post by Fox_Of_The_Wind on Today at 05:49:49 PM »
If you do decide to sell it I am interested in it. I miss haveing my Stardot camera.
3
WeatherUnderground / Re: Amazon Echo Alexa and Weather Underground
« Last post by davesilver on Today at 05:48:42 PM »

 download WuiWlink_1.dll (Davis E-mailed it to me)


1.            Navigate to the C:/Weatherlink folder.
2.            Look for a folder called ‘Expansion_Modules’.
3.            Copy that .dll filel into that ‘Expansion_Modules’ folder.
4.            Then open that folder to verify that the .dll file is in there.
5.            Close out of this window.
6.            Open Weatherlink.
7.            Click file, then click ‘manage modules.
8.            On the new box that opens, click ‘add module’.
9.            On the window that opens, make sure it opens the C:/Weatherlink/Expansion_Modules folder.  If it doesn’t navigate to that folder.
10.          Click to select the .dll file I sent you.   Click ‘open’
11.          You’ll now see that file listed in the previous ‘expansion module management’ box.
12.          Click to highlight that file, then click ‘enable module’.   You’ll then be prompted to close out of and restart Weatherlink.   Do that.
13.          Then open Weatherlink.
14.          Click ‘file’.  There should now be an option that says ‘Wunderground Settings’.   Click that.
15.          On the next box, type in the station ID and password that Weather Underground gave you.
16.          Select the update interval.
17.          Then do a test to make sure your data is getting up to Weather Underground.
18.          Click OK.

then go here for instructions
http://kevin-key.blogspot.ca/2017/05/amazon-alexa-skill-beta-test-connect.html
4
It was easy.  Just download weatherlink dll for weather underground, set up your WU account, then tell alexa your id and password to WU.  Follow instructions on skill site.  20-30 minutes or so
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Weather Web Cams / Re: StarDot NetCamLIVE
« Last post by ValentineWeather on Today at 03:53:19 PM »
Hi Dan thanks for the response. Interested in furture improvements for sure.
I'm limited to 2 mbps as of this morning due to ISP restrictions. I did speed test and verified I'm only getting 1.7  upload now from 7 mbps before.

For what ever reason these Hikvisions are using a small amount of bandwidth 15-30 kbps with H.264+ turned on (Hik's version of H.265) 

One thing about this compression the server needs to be able to support and not sure if Youtube does currently.

I'm using the free on demand IPCAMLive server service for both paid embedded camera/sound into personal website and free on demand version that they only allow linking with no sound.

Bandwidth is very small so I'm able to stream both cameras simultaneously no problem with less than 2 Mb upload. Not sure how its being done but works so far.
I'll include what I have using Blue Iris data along with  IPCAMLive server data on bandwidth usage.
Maybe the Startdots could use H.265 or something like this for future cameras.

Link to embedded camera with sound: https://www.valentinenebraska.net/streamlive2.php
Link to non embedded camera free no sound: http://ipcamlive.com/59172be6aa218



7
Placing all code into one huge file is IMHO stupid because browser caches JS files and then if you make change in any part of your code you always change this huge file, which must be re-loaded.

Exactly. There are no idea in loading relatively big scripts like say Highcharts or Leaflet on pages where they are not in use either. Some real-world tests showed that combinating to some extent may speed up things tought so I ended up in a middleway here, i have one combinated file with a bunch of small plugins used site-wide and for other/bigger js-scripts (ex. jQuery-plugins not used on every page, Highcharts, Leaflet etc) have i created some combinated files for each script/plugin based on how they are used, for example, i have a leaflet.js and a leaflet-plugins.js. This way is it also possible to control loaded scripts on page-basis.
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Weather Web Cams / Re: StarDot NetCamLIVE
« Last post by StarDot_Dan on Today at 02:34:54 PM »
We've studied this bitrate issue a lot, mostly to help our customers in the field. 

We've also studied the use of live streaming by weather people, thus my interest in this group. 
We're actively planning future cameras around the needs of weather people, with exotic features so good that I'll get into trouble if I reveal them before we finish.

However, new products take a long time and so for now I'd like to help you comply with that internet provider.

I've never seen more than a 30% difference in bit rates among IP cameras. So I looked up Hikvision's bit rate recommendations. Their 720p 30fps at "best" quality requires 6144Kb. At the lowest quality they recommend, it still needs 3072Kb.   If it's streaming to YouTube on less than that, it's likely because the Hikvision can't stream there on its own and a computer is re-compressing the stream for it.  Computers have lots of GPUs they can use,  lots of memory, and that Pentium itself is no slouch.   So they can significantly lower the rate in ways a little IP camera can't.   They can also tinker with the quality settings and lower them when they're causing traffic issues, unknown to you.

But if you need a computer in order to stream a brand of IP camera, the streaming becomes less reliable due to more equipment in the path to go wrong.

We set our default for 720p at 4000, well towards the lowest Hikvision recommends.  And  there's lots of code in our cameras to automatically drop the bit rate if the internet provider is having trouble.   If you want to know what's happening precisely, put this in your overlay:

   Q: $Sq D: $Sd P: $Sz  $Sb   

Q=current quality setting (higher is lower quality), D=dropped frames, P=pauses to try to help out the internet provider, and the $Sb is the actual current bitrate in use, regardless of what you have specified in the setup menu.

If you used up half the town's bitrate, that's going to be reflected in a much lower actual bitrate on the overlay. You might be surprised at what bit rate it's actually running.  1200 is common for 720p. However, allowing up to 4000 in the setup menu does mean, when it can, it'll use up 4000 even if it needs to adjust to unnecessarily high quality settings.

Knowing your internet provider is keeping tabs, you can set it not to do that by tinkering with the values,  after you use the presets.  Always start with the presets, then tinker if you must.  It's possible to get decent views as low as 400, and one train station we helped had to run at 150 for a while, due to poor internet service.

You could adjust your 720p bitrate down to 1200 on the H.264 tab. Then set the quality to 30 instead of the default. The quality is actually compression ratio, so 30 is more compression than the 16 default.  What that'll do is, tell the camera that even if it can use up to 1200 by increasing the quality, don't bother if you are at least at 30.  That's defined as high quality in the H.264 standard. Then it won't use up bandwidth needlessly trying to reach the limit you set.

Also consider, though people claim to be able to see the difference between 30fps and 20fps, I've tested a few "experts".   Their guess is not much better than 50/50 when looking at a 20fps stream.  So you could set the frame rate of that 720p to 20fps, and lower the quality to 1000.  If you lower the frame rate, always lower the bitrate too or the lower frame rate won't help. It should still be fairly unnoticeable, because at 20fps, that 1000 is more like 1500.

And consider, most viewers of live streams are using cellphones, and up to 60% of all viewers are being sent 144p by YouTube.  They really mess with the sizes!  You might have set 720p, but most viewers are seeing less than half that.

Bottom line: If you want to keep that camera streaming within what the provider said, Select 360p, lower the frame rate to 20, increase P frames to 63, set bitrate at 400, and set quality to 30.   Then let me take a look. 

We had a train station customer who had to run at 150 for a while.  It looked fine. No viewers complained about it.



9
I promised an update regarding the Humidity sensors once I get it and have it installed.
Well, I received two sensors. One loose one and one premade with a temp sensor.
First I replaced the sensor in the indoor unit and after 24 hours outside, I started to receive the same results as the old sensor.
I then took down the outdoor unit and mounted it on a table making it easier to work with. Opened to unit and replaced the old temp/hum sensor with the new one. While at it, I also gave it a good cleaning, a 15-1 Spray and Forget solution work wonders in getting all that junk off, being careful not to get any on the sensors.

Fast forward 3 weeks. Both hum sensors now track within 1 to 5 degrees. It is very close at the lower values <60. Over 80, the outdoor unit reads 3 -5 higher, but that can be due to its location. The indoor unit is under my porch. In windy conditions, the readings are much closer. A fan might do the trick, problem is where to mount it   :eek:

Here is a picture showing the difference, the new one on the left is covered by some type of thick paper towel material. Not sure what it is.
 [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Thanks to Ed, Ambient/Fine Offset, in providing the replacement parts. Happy again with my WS-1200  :grin:

10
Thank you Brian for the latest update with new Design and features!

Dashboard V3.4-X4

http://nyweather.net

thanks

just hang in there for a few hours i will upload a updated version with a few fixes,additional things and tidied up some of the new modules , im just clarifying some additional options to work with weather display software . ive fixed the 24/12 our clock option, cleaned up the earthquake module , added some other extra modules . smarter css stripped all the stuff not needed keeps all running nicely.

just watch for the date change on the info page then it will all done as Im away for a few weeks after sunday.

glad you like it .


brian

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