Author Topic: WMR300 Anenometer  (Read 749 times)

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Offline Billba

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WMR300 Anenometer
« on: May 01, 2017, 07:35:47 PM »
I've been a data collector for 15 years or more using OS and Technoline equipment all of which required regular replacement of the various elements every 3-4 years.
My latest set up is with a WMR300 which is near to 3 years old. I have recently been getting vastly excessive readings from the anenometer at a greater and greater frequency. I know the cups are spinning no faster so cannot understand how the readings are being produced. OS were contacted by the supplier and have suggested a factory reset using very specific procedures but this has not helped and are now suggesting a new anenometer. Any other suggestions from the forum please as I am loathe to go ahead with the purchase and then find there is a known easy software reset or some such that I could have done first. Many thanks Bill

Offline runahue

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2017, 04:28:27 PM »
I have the same problem and it is because radio frequency.  I am ham radio and each time I make a transmission I have incorrect values of wind.

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Offline waiukuweather

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2017, 05:08:49 PM »
maybe putting ferrite chokes around the cable to the anenometer might help then?

Offline Billba

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2017, 07:27:21 PM »
Many thanks for the thoughts, in my case there are no transmissions in the immediate area... although there is an aerial set up receiving satellite and vhf signals. Maybe they have some effects that have combined to interfere in some way. I will reposition my gear and report back. cheers Bill

Offline eyecue

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2017, 01:55:05 PM »
Depending on the method the anemometer uses, (reed switch or Hall sensor or magnetic induction)  that could have a big impact on the readings over time.  A Hall sensor has a MTBF rate of 15 million and a reed switch is 10 million.  RM Young uses the induction method and there is no rate of failure on that. I doubt you are getting interference. When a reed switch fails it is usually due to the inner contacts becoming magnetic and sticking, but the contact can fracture from repeated flexing.
Cocorahs, Skywarn, Aficionado of weather. Davis VP2  pro wireless, Oregon Scientific and DIY.

Offline Billba

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2017, 02:32:03 PM »
Thanks Eyecue... do I read that as the aerials close by are unlikely to cause interference? My guess is it's either reed switch or Hall sensor as it's spinning cups but I cannot fathom the 3 times over reading. I take it you weren't opining about the ferrite chokes suggestion. Cheers Bill

Offline eyecue

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2017, 04:06:33 PM »
That unit appears to be a take off on Davis equipment.  Davis Used reed switches for a long time.  I have an older Oregon Scientific unit that uses reed switches also.  If the antenna that is near it is transmitting, that would be a concern as you would have radio frequency energy going everywhere and it would saturate the cables and the equipment.  If the antennas are just receiving then it is not an issue.  RM Young uses the induction method so it is not common at all.  I would venture to say that if you have a broken reed switch then the switch is literally wiggling every revolution of the cups and causing multiple peaks to be sent to the console. A ferrite bead installation would be hit and miss because you should have an idea what is causing or likely to cause the interference before you install one, knowing what it is would then dictate how you would install it. It is not as easy as just throwing one on the cable. So if you have not had this issue in the past I would suspect a component in your system is causing the issue. Unless a neighbor or other radio service has moved in nearby.
Cocorahs, Skywarn, Aficionado of weather. Davis VP2  pro wireless, Oregon Scientific and DIY.

Offline Billba

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2017, 04:38:42 PM »
Yes I had heard that suggested but never specifically verified and I cannot find any detailed spec sheet to compare with the one Davis supply. The only other thing I have not yet mentioned is that the aerials (FM radio, terrestrial TV and satellite TV) are supplying an apartment block and are amplified somewhat as they supply 6 units. I can't believe that is relevant but thought I should mention it. I do recall that they were adjusted recently but I am now clutching at straws. I cannot easily move my mast on which the anemometer is mounted but can move the transmitter box attached to the rain gauge further away from the aerials. I'll let you know if there is any change. It may be a couple of days. Cheers Bill

Offline Billba

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #8 on: May 24, 2017, 09:31:26 AM »
Final update as have exhausted options......   I did move the assembly a little further away from the TV/FM aerial array but there was no change. Then I removed the box from the roof and had it de powered for a couple of days. I dismantled cleaned and generally examined closely for problems but none obvious. Re assembled and remounted but after a few moments of maybe's back to usual. Today there was no wind at all and I could see the cups stationary but the display in my hand was continuing to read > 10 knots and continually changing. The Max reading on the graphical display (last 24 hrs) reads >100+ knots consistently. Cheers and thanks to all who have commented.

Offline eyecue

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2017, 10:27:56 PM »
Unplug the wind sensor and see if the error reading drops.  See if it is spurious error based on a component failure.  You have ruled out interference for the most part.
Cocorahs, Skywarn, Aficionado of weather. Davis VP2  pro wireless, Oregon Scientific and DIY.

Offline Billba

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Re: WMR300 Anenometer
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2017, 02:52:49 PM »
Thanks eyecue, I maybe will report back on that when I next go up. I would expect to get a row of dashes once unplugged but if not it really just confirms my suspicion that the control box is faulty and I can find no one who can either service them or replace them....  I could replace the anemometer for 140 or so but am not inclined to do that as my money is still on the faulty control box.  Cheers  Bill