Author Topic: THGN801 Radiation Shield Performance (or lack thereof)  (Read 12667 times)

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Offline NeverDie

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Re: THGN801 Radiation Shield Performance (or lack thereof)
« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2013, 11:19:20 AM »
When I had my OSI WMR200 system operating, I, too, switched to a 9-platter Davis radiation shield (7714?) because the stock THGN801 unit was worthless.

Our summer solar loading caused my daytime readings to be 3-5°F higher than comparison readings taken from an adjacent, shaded, second sensor. The Davis shield reduced that difference to just 0.1-0.3°F.

Thanks for posting this.  It helped push me off the fence.  I just now ordered a 7714 and will receive it on Wednesday.  I found a place to put it out of harms way, and so it will probably outlive whatever humidity sensor I put inside it.  Speaking of maintenance, I hope birds don't decide to perch on it....   :shock:
« Last Edit: September 23, 2013, 11:40:06 AM by NeverDie »

Offline NeverDie

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Re: THGN801 Radiation Shield Performance (or lack thereof)
« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2013, 03:41:01 PM »
I used a 2-foot diameter piece of hole- perforated metal (below); top painted white, bottom painted flat-black. Worked OK except at sunrise & sunset. A semi-circular (half dome) shape is probably better.



Did you use it in addition to the 7714, or instead of it?

How would you orientate the dome relative to your temperature gear?  i.e. how high, and (if applicable) how far around?  Fabricating a dome doesn't sound easy, but an arch out of that material might be easy.

Maybe a partial dome would be good enough?  I must admit, though, a full dome does have a certain aesthetic appeal to it.  As a conversation piece, it would certainly beat most other yard ornamentation I've seen.    

Can you add a bit more color to "worked OK"?

I tried using it *with* the original OSI THGN801 sensor assembly as a radiation shield (of sort); positioned about 6-inches above the THGN801 unit on its own L-bracket.

It was a 2-ft square hunk of left-over metal in my garage that I sprayed one side (top) white and other side (bottom) flat-black, using Krylon spray paint (I believe).  

That's a clever approach.  I gather your idea was to absorb on the bottom and to emit and reflect on the top?  Also, your approach uses the metal's thermal conductance  to move the heat from the bottom to the top, where it could be directed away from  THGN801.  Very clever indeed.  If all that worked efficiently, then doing it without the holes maybe would take it up a notch?

It looks as though Krylon flat black maybe isn't ideal, though, because although it does absorb it's also highly emissive:  http://www.infrared-thermography.com/material-1.htm.  

I guess if you were NASA, a good finish for the bottom would be GSFC Dark Mirror Coating (which absorbs 0.86 but emits only 0.04)  http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a305864.pdf.  Maybe it's possible to get some sheet metal with it already coated onto it?  You wouldn't need much of it, so maybe the cost wouldn't be as bad as what you might be thinking.  Then you could just cut to size and spray Krylon 1502 white paint onto the opposite side.

Or, maybe there's something else with similar properties.  I didn't do an exhaustive search.  Anyhow, if cost and convenience are dominant, the glossy black paint is probably less emissive than the flat black paint.  It sounds like you're happy with your 7714 as it is, but if you still have your prior creation, maybe you'd want to try it out on the 7714 anyway?  You might be so happy with it that you'll think you're in heaven.


« Last Edit: September 23, 2013, 03:52:01 PM by NeverDie »

Offline aweatherguy

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Re: THGN801 Radiation Shield Performance (or lack thereof)
« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2013, 03:44:46 PM »
Neat idea. Looks like that cuts out about 50% of the incoming radiation (just an eyeball estimate). How much difference did it make with the original OS shield?

I guess you could thin it down to just a semi-circular stripe that was just wide enough to cover the sun's path in winter and summer. Or even thinner, but then you would have to re-orient it manually several time per year as the sun's elevation changes.