Topic: Vantage Pro 2 Blank Screen Fix

[sunrise305]

On more than one occasion my Vantage Pro2 screen went completely blank.  On other occasions it displayed every character all at once.  Of course neither state was useful.  After considerable trial and error this is how I permanently fixed the problem.  First I removed the back case via the three screws.  You have to unplug the power and other external connections first.  After the screws are removed the case is held in place by two plastic tabs in the URHC when facing the screen.  Carefully flex the case to slip these out of their grooves.  Next I removed and re-seated the white ribbon connector for the screen.  It's held in place on each side by two tiny beige pins that slide out just a fraction to release their clamping.  Then the ribbon slides out.  Just the action of removing and replacing the ribbon may be enough to wear off any slight oxidation that could prevent proper signal transmission.  Or you may need to do a very very light sanding.  Re-seat the ribbon, first on one side and then the other, taking care to make certain it goes in exactly straight and is correctly aligned with the corresponding contacts.  Now here was the tough part for me.  Every single time I put the case back on, the screen went blank again.  I cannot figure out why.  Clearly something is pressing on the ribbon or circuit board that causes it to cut out.  So now I just leave the back of the case off!  Not ideal, but considering that my Vantage Pro was a door-stop (no screen) this is definitely better.  I hope this helps others with the same problem and maybe encourages a thread with an even better fix.

[aiweatherman]

My screen went blank and this fix worked!  Thanks!

[miraculon]

DeOxit or CRC QD contact cleaner work wonders. I have used both. The CRC leaves no residue and is my preference.

After cleaning, some dielectric grease would prevent future oxidation.

Greg H.

[AR155]

I can add that the above recommended fix worked for my VP2 console.

PROBLEM
I have been running a VP2 console on batteries and performing regular changes since 2008.  Upon the last battery replacement the VP2 console would not display data, I received a blank screen or the multi/random character screen.

TROUBLESHOOTING
I followed the usual power up/down cycles, with and without the data logger, and also plugged into mains power.  I did note however that whilst the screen was random characters, the light functioned with the double press of the lamp button.  I also tested the console while connected to my laptop, whereby I noted that data was still being logged and able to be downloaded from the logger.  The bulletin function was also functional in the Weatherlink software.  This added weight to a screen or ribbon problem as mentioned in the original post.

FIX
I performed the open-up and press/re-seat the ribbon cable connector, and a normal screen was restored.  Whilst I understand that this may not be the source of the problem or fix for all instances of screen failure, given the relative simplicity and easy access to perform I would suggest that it may be a good first fix attempt if the usual power up/down cycle doesn't work.

I would note that the batteries in the console are quite snug, and I often perform the replacement on a flat/hard surface.  Given the curved nature of the display the replacement method may introduce a degree of flex into the console and stress the connectors, particularly as I have repeated this many times over the years.  Going forward I will use a soft surface for replacement to see if that helps avoid this issue.

[archae86]

I have been running a VP2 console on batteries and performing regular changes since 2008. 
<snip>
I would note that the batteries in the console are quite snug, and I often perform the replacement on a flat/hard surface. 

I run three VP2 consoles, of which two run entirely on battery power, so I do a lot of changes.  A gripe I have with the VP2 console is that the original battery compartment plastic aperture just is not large enough on the "button end" of the battery to allow reasonable escape, so long ago I got out a pair of diagonal cutters and crudely cut away some plastic to help me get the batteries in and out.

It may hurt the fit issue that I use NiMH batteries, some of which have a bit larger exterior dimensions than do some alkalines.  Not all C cells are exactly the same size, especially just after they come off the charger.

[EA1EF]

A typical solutión to solve bad contacts or inestable  conection on plain conections are ad a thin tape as cellophane tape in the reverse face electrica contacts or male plain

First glue and c
after cut carefuly the excedents and also push soft

cellophane tape preferiblemente traed as scotch

[winger]

Just had the same problem, oddly after a power cut and having not even touched the console.

Fixed with two small pieces of Sellotape stuck onto the blue tabs at either end of the contact cable. I also swapped the cable rouund.

The problem with the fault recurring when the case is put back on is that the case has a small cut-out that must press on the cable quite hard - this then pulls the cable out of the sockets again. If you look at the screen connector, you will probably note a crease where the case is doing this.

[davidmc36]

I went through some of the same with one of my consoles.

If it happens again, I will try the tape to tighten up the connector and check out that case crease.

[webfarmer]

Thankful I came here to find this old post. Swapped batteries and for the life of me, couldn't figure out the blank screen after. Thank you so much for this fix! There's no way my simple brain could have known to do the ribbon R&R.