Topic: VP2 Console Power and Serial Cable Extension for Clean Wall Mounting

[NathanF]

UPDATE: Scroll down for finished project pics!

Hello All,
I recently built and installed a home/office server to host my media, documents, etc.. as well as run Cumulus in lieu of my main (and power hungry) desktop. On the other end is my beloved Vantage Pro 2, the cabled/wired version. 

What I would like to do is wall mount my console centrally in our home to get better indoor temp readings, then connect it to my server approximately 25ft away (let's say 35ft to be safe) in a closed off room. There isn't an AC plug handy for the console, but even if there were I'd much prefer to see no cables leaving the console.

Here was what I was thinking that would achieve all my goals, but I have some concerns I want to run by everyone here first.

1) Install remodel wallbox and plate with two RJ-11 jacks, and one RJ-45 jack in hallway.

2) Install matching box/jacks in server room, then connect to the hallway jacks via two shielded Cat-5e runs. One for the two RJ-11s, and the other for the RJ-45. The shields will be connected to house ground on one end.

3) In server room, connect cable coming from ISS to one of the RJ-11 jacks. Connect other jack to RJ-11 to serial adapter on the server (the one included with serial datalogger.)

4) On the hallway side, connect console ISS data+power via Rj-11 cable. Connect male datalogger RJ-11 to remaining wall female wall jack. Finally, connect a breakout RJ-45 cable spliced with stock AC male plug using 2 pairs for positive, and two pairs for negative.

Any thoughts about the above? Concerning points 2 and 3, I'm concerned about reliability and not frying my console a second time. Had to repair mine after lightning storm induced voltage on the lines frying the console a ways back. I'm also concerned about my server, which does have a native serial port. However, I am considering using the USB adapter I've been using for years instead of the serial port. I don't want any voltage induced going into my server's motherboard, and somehow I think a USB adapter would at least put something that can fry first before passing any badness onto the motherboard. Wishful thinking, I know.

As for the power / point number 4, splicing power cables does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling. However, power over ethernet routinely powers devices up to 15 watts, and the console is no where near that. I figure it's safe, though there is the concern about losing some voltage in the line. That could be mitigated with a different power adapter, but I'd prefer not to deal with that unless it's absolutely necessary.

Both the server and console power will be connected to a pure sinewave output UPS with surge protection. I also installed a whole house surge protector in the main panel a ways back, just for good measure.

Thanks for everyone's input. I've attached a diagram that hopefully shows the above a little more clearly!

[Ian.]

Hi NathanF,

I have used cat5 to bring sensors and 24vAC to the ISS and then back to the display, from the display I used a separate powered USB cable (a non powered version wouldn't work even over a relatively short distance) as I opted for a USB version logger.

Serial data voltages may make your journey in tact, a dry run would be the way to go, from this you will know if a serial booster is needed, I don't believe ISS data will cause any problems to the serial signal.

http://www.chatteris.biz/Config%20pages/wired.html#Wind connection

[piconut]

I have a serial connection to my VP2 and I extended the cable with CAT5e to about 40 feet with no loss of signal.  It has been running that way for 4 years. 

[NathanF]

Thanks, both of you for the input! I took the plunge today and am happy to report things appear to be working perfectly!

The big issue was that I forgot the 3 inch serial datalogger cable is RJ-22, like old phone headsets, rather than RJ-11 like regular phone cords. It turns out no one makes wall plates or keystones for RJ-22, at least as far as I can tell. I could have simply cut off the connector and re-crimped it to a RJ-11, but I didn't want to kill my chance of warranty repair should I need it again in the future. It occurred to me I could probably salvage a jack from an old landline phone, so I headed to Goodwill. I was able to snag a 90s era Panasonic office phone for $4.99. It produced two usable RJ-22 jacks, one from the base unit, and one in the headset.

In the end I used the base jack and fashioned my own small plate for it out of a cut down wall plate. I decided against using a regular single gang remodel box to keep the hole in the wall small for future patching, as well as to aid in flush mounting the console. I was also concerned about a large hole in the wall causing inaccurate temp readings. I figure 1/2 inch of drywall is way more insulating than 1/16th plastic. So, I drilled a 1 inch wide hole and cut the plate down to cover it with some overlap.

On each side of the RJ-22 jack I drilled a small 1/8 inch hole. One I used for two pairs from the shielded Cat-5e cable handling the ISS connection, terminated to a male RJ-11 jack which plugs directly into the console. The other will be used for the power jack which utilizes the second Cat-5e cable. Right now the console is running on battery, as I wanted to ensure this would actually work before cutting up my power adapter. 

Will report back with pics!

[NathanF]

Pulling the wires. I only had enough shielded Cat-5e for one run, so the power line is regular unshielded.


My fugly custom jack plate. Works great except I should have threaded the power through the right hole instead of the left.


Done!

[W3DRM]

Nice job! 

[NathanF]

Just wanted to say that I am about 3-4 years out now with this setup, and I have not had a single issue. It's continuing to work great, both communication from the ISS to console, and more concerning originally, the serial over cat5 link between the console and my server. So if you want to do something similar, go for it! It should work out great.

[miraculon]

Say, is that Honeywell thermostat a WiFi unit? I had a Z-wave one and it dropped connection to the Smartthings hub too frequently and I replaced it with the t-stat that the HVAC installer put in.

Is the Honeywell thermostat WiFi connection reliable? There was no problem with the stand-alone functions of the t-stat, but Z-wave was a big problem. I did like, and miss the functionality of it via Smartthings though. I tried an off-brand Zigbee thermostat, but it ran my A/C with slow fan speed and my A-coil iced up really bad. It went back to the Amazonians...

Sorry for the off-topic comment. 

Greg H.

[NathanF]

It is indeed! We've had it just shy of 9 years now. I've never had to power cycle it or reconnect it to the wifi, not once. (When I have replaced our wifi router, I set it to the same password and type of encryption as the prior one, so it reconnected without issue.)

There have been a few times here and there where the online system was undergoing maintenance, or it said the app did not successfully send a command, but that's like a few times a year thing at most.

My model is RTH8580WF1007. You can get it used, but it looks like it has been replaced. Unfortunately with stuff like this just because this unit was good it doesn't necessarily mean the newer stuff is the same. I would read reviews on anything you choose, and run it by fakespot.com if it's Amazon for good measure.

Good luck!

PS: If your thermostat is capable of running the fan at low speeds, you probably have a variable blower AC unit. In which case, you need to get a thermostat that supports that. For my system, the AC and heat blower speeds are set via jumpers on the furnace, and the thermostat only turns things on or off.

PPS: It's worth noting that with wifi if you have a poor signal at the thermostat location, you will likely have a bad time. Use a laptop or phone and test with www.fast.com Be sure to use the 2.4GHz band, since embedded devices tend to cheap out and use non-dual band wifi.

Say, is that Honeywell thermostat a WiFi unit? I had a Z-wave one and it dropped connection to the Smartthings hub too frequently and I replaced it with the t-stat that the HVAC installer put in.

Is the Honeywell thermostat WiFi connection reliable? There was no problem with the stand-alone functions of the t-stat, but Z-wave was a big problem. I did like, and miss the functionality of it via Smartthings though. I tried an off-brand Zigbee thermostat, but it ran my A/C with slow fan speed and my A-coil iced up really bad. It went back to the Amazonians...

Sorry for the off-topic comment. 

Greg H.

[jcookjr82]

I have that Honeywell thermostat, as well, and it has been awesome. Google Home app allows us to use it with Assistant, but I really want to switch over to the Nest thermostat because of the learning capabilities.